On the road, we stopped at the celebrated Ghoda Ghodi temple and the homonymous lake, which we found full of blossoming lotus flowers. After visiting the tranquil and colourful temple and getting lost in the smooth white and pink layer gently rising on a vivid green carpet on the water’s surface, we moved towards another community located near the entrance of Bardiya National Park.

Here, the culinary experience was the centre of the group activities and it took place in different moments. First, literally immersed in the river, then in the forest and finally around the fireplace.

If you haven’t already, remind yourself of Elisa’s first taste of Nepal and the Bhada Community.

At the River

I happily freed my feet from the constriction of my trekking boots and carefully descended the rocky hills to run towards the sandy dunes formed by the waters of the Geruwa River. It was an extremely hot day, and the softness of the sand turned into a burning torture after only a few seconds of standing on it.

Regularly dipping my feet in the water was the only option I had to continue walking along the river. And it was in the water that I met them.

They were moving effortlessly like they were just strolling on soft grass during a mild summer afternoon. Nothing in their gestures or expressions would suggest that they were walking barefoot against the current on slippery rocks, submerged in water up to their knees.

They were using the current to their advantage to guide the small fishes, snails and tiny prawns onto their round net. Now and then, you would see them pause and bow to the water and, with a rhythmic gesture of their hand, collect the capture and throw it with extreme precision into the tall grass basket they were holding on their heads. They were collecting our dinner.

In the Forest

Our group had more active participation in our dinner preparation while in the forest. After a delicious lunch spent sitting in the treehouse observing some of the indigenous species of birds on nearby branches and chatting with the local guide, we went exploring. Strengthened by the meal, we agreed to defy the scorching ground and take a little walk to a thickly green area that I renamed ‘our forest market’ for the day. Our mission was to collect as many fiddlehead greens as we could. The niyuro, in Nepalese, is a popular small vegetable with a curious tight spiral top, which we learned would be included in our menu that evening.

We were outdone by the locals, as expected, who were armed with an efficient technique and the right knowledge. Finding the right ones – those tender light green tips – turned out to be harder than we thought. However small our contributions were, they filled us with pride and some scratches left by the thorns we accidentally brushed against, which were a testament to our courageous efforts.

I thanked the forest for the food we had collected and joined the others under the ruthless sun on the way back to the big tree.

Around the Fireplace

When we returned to the community centre at sunset, the fire was ready, and two of the women we met earlier that morning in the river were crouched next to it, adding cooking oil to big pots and several pans lined up around them.

Shortly after our arrival, the roles were assigned and everyone started working on something.

Peeling, cutting, slicing, chopping. The spices needed to be ground, and the garlic crumbled. Combining rice flour and water to create the perfect dough is a fine art only a few of us who were from the Asian continent knew about, the others were assisting, positioned before and after, passing on the ingredients and starting to create the different shapes in which they will be cooked. Others took turns around the fire to rotate the meat skewers, turn the frying items and stir the pots.

After going around each workstation and taking pictures of the entertaining activity which would feed us in the next few hours, I also joined in the preparation effort.

I found it quite tricky to recreate the shapes my cooking teacher was patiently showing me. My request to her to slow down the moves, in the hope that it would help me process the fine details, was not enough for me to grasp what only years of practise can provide; it cannot be described but only felt perhaps.

Eventually, my floppy creations also reached the fireplace and were steamed with the more refined ones. I thought that on the cooking tray they looked pretty good and didn’t differ much from the high-quality ones, but the lady still found them hilarious.

Although they had gained the master chef’s approval, gracefully she could easily point out at them amongst the others and, with a smile confirm the identity of their maker.

At the Table

The feast lasted hours. We ate everything we could, but there was still a lot of food left on the long table in the middle of the communal courtyard. It looked like we all enjoyed it, taking pride in having participated in the acclaimed results, and the personal satisfaction of being part of a collective effort added that exceptional flavour to the dishes.

The evening faded into night, and the sky turned pitch-black while our resonant laughter continued spreading a special kind of brightness, keeping the dogs, the roosters and everyone in the village happily awake.

The stories shared while passing on the serving plates and filling the glasses replaced the sparkles of the fires left to rest, adding layers of meaning to our limited cultural knowledge of that remote place and bonding us as only food and storytelling can do, while we rediscovered our common human roots.

to be continued…

If you want to contact Elisa, please feel free to make an Enquiry today!

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

Home to 1,000 miles of magnificent beaches, championship golf courses, great spas and some top-notch resorts, the Dominican Republic is a long-standing Caribbean favourite. Fundamentally this is beach lover's paradise but I visited in February to explore the capital Santo Domingo (having heard great things about it) and to also check out two differing all-inclusives – ‘The Hard Rock Punta Cana’ (an all-inclusive powerhouse) and ‘Impressive Punta Cana’, a 5 star All Inclusive located on El Cortecito Beach.

The city of Santo Domingo is one of the Caribbean's most culturally rich and vibrant historical destinations. The walled, cobblestoned Colonial Zone is the historic centre, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is the place to stay. This is where the history of the new world begins. After Christopher Columbus’s arrival on the island in 1492, Santo Domingo became the site of the first cathedral, hospital, customs house and university in the Americas. Reminiscent of Cartagena in Colombia it was difficult to imagine I was in the Caribbean and the colonial city gives you a real flavour of Dominican Republic life. On the Saturday night I visited I could hear the beat of Merengue music from every corner store, known as ‘Colmados’, these supermarkets turned bars are a central part of Dominican life, where people can buy everyday groceries and socialise with neighbours. They're more of a community hub than just a store. To explore the city I took a two hour bike tour with ‘Bic Tours’, an excellent way to not only learn more about the history of the city but also get some great recommendations for restaurants and bars to visit.  

Kimpton Las Mercedes - Santo Domingo

My home for three nights was ‘Kimpton Las Mercedes’, found in the heart of Santo Domingo's Colonial zone and the new kid on the block, having only opened in June 2024.  The hotel is set within a 16th century structure that has been thoughtfully revitalised by award-winning architect Rafael Moneo to reflect the transformation of the historic neighbourhood into a thriving cultural hub. In reimagining the space, original materials have been preserved or repurposed where possible, while a modern addition has been respectfully constructed behind the original structure. The hotel features 130 guest rooms, including eight expansive rooftop suites, each with a private balcony to give guests a taste of the indoor-outdoor living the city is known for. Local artists and craftsmen have been tapped to infuse each room with colourful design elements that reflect the spirit of Santo Domingo. My room was large, light and contemporary and I even managed to put an end to my phobia of tech and embrace all the new lighting technology within the room, dimmer and mood switches, black out blinds etc…

No surprise that the rooftop infinity pool with plenty of sunbeds completely won me over. From this elevated vantage point, I was able to appreciate iconic landmarks like the Archdiocesan Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia, the Church of Nuestra Señora de las Mercedes and the Monastery of San Francisco, enjoying a visual connection with the city's historic surroundings. The hotel has three unique restaurants, Zola, the signature restaurant with a retractable roof for al fresco dining, marries Northern Italian fare with local ingredients and features an expansive array of aperitivos, tableside cocktails and old-world wines. El Patio, the secluded courtyard garden bar and Coral for breakfast. Just off the lobby, guests can indulge their senses at the locally-sourced cigar and rum lounge, which showcases a 500-year-old well that was uncovered and restored during the building’s transformation.

This is the fifth Kimpton Hotel in the Caribbean and Latin America and as with all Kimptons, the hotel features beloved perks such as morning coffee and tea service, an evening social hour (and yes, I was there on the dot of 5.00 pm for the complimentary cocktails and as a solo traveller a fun way of meeting fellow guests), a “Forgot It? We’ve Got It!” programme, in-room yoga mats and pet-friendly policies. The hotel is located just 28-minutes from Las Américas International Airport and approximately 2-hours from Punta Cana International Airport. 

‘The Hard Rock Resort and Casino’ - Punta Cana

‘The Hard Rock Resort and Casino’ is perfect for families and those seeking glamour together with non-stop fun. This is the original hard rock all-inclusive hotel and at first, I found it a little overwhelming with a massive, atrium style lobby, the beach and sea far away in the distance, multiple restaurants and bars, swimming pools, water features, a casino and golf course together with 1,882 rooms and suites in beautifully landscaped gardens. However, it wasn't long before I was master of the map, had found my favourite pools and was able to find my way easily around.  I was happy to walk but staff also whizz guests around in golf carts, operating like a bus service with covered "bus shelters". 

Rooms are spacious, indulgent and decadent with plenty of rock star touches like private balconies, a Hydra Spa tub, plush bathrobes and slippers. There are a lot of choices, albeit very enjoyable ones, to make when you’re staying at the ‘Hard Rock’ and first and foremost for an avid swimmer like myself, was which pool to choose. Thankfully my two favourites were minutes from my room, Eden, adults only and in the early mornings I had the pool to myself and Sax, a gorgeous, curved infinity pool. Tempting as it is to spend all day by a pool, there's no shortage of activities to keep you amused. There's the on-site 18-hole Jack Nicklaus Signature design golf course, an escape room, an expansive spa with 52 treatment rooms and the most comprehensive hydrotherapy centre in the Caribbean whilst the hotel's nine different restaurants, offer culinary adventures ranging from chic Asian-fusion to comforting home-cooked breakfasts.

Impressive - Punta Cana

‘Impressive Punta Cana’ is a waterfront resort located only 25-minutes from Punta Cana International Airport, on the idyllic El Cortecito Beach in the heart of Bavaro. With a stunning white sand beach and the requisite swaying palm trees, this is the perfect destination for families and couples searching for a place in which to relax and enjoy the sun, beach and endless fun. ‘Impressive Punta Cana’ has 654 fully equipped rooms of 33sqm, designed to create a comfortable and functional space for up to four guests. Each room has a private terrace or balcony, cable television, air conditioning, a king size bed or two queen sized beds, a direct phone line, coffee & tea making facilities, toiletries, independent temperature control, iron & ironing board, a radio alarm clock, scale, hair dryer, in-room safe, in -room mini bar (restocked upon request), luggage rack and more. There are eight restaurants (a buffet, five à la carte restaurants, a snack bar, a wine cellar and a coffee shop). ‘Open Sea’ has an international buffet with ‘Yakimeshi’ (Asian), ‘Villa Magna’ (Italian), ‘On the Grill’ (Steakhouse) and ‘Alebrije’ (Mexican).  I had lunch at ‘Villa Magna’ - I find it sad that the majority of all-inclusive resort restaurants have no outside eating (although I appreciate that the majority find eating in the heat uncomfortable). However, at ‘Villa Magna’ you dine al-fresco on the first floor with plenty of shade and an uninterrupted view of the turquoise ocean. The ‘Game & Fun Kid’s Club’ and ‘Play Room’ feature supervised activities for children (4-12) and teens (13-16) with various programmes centred on science, nature and exploring, as well as arts & crafts, day camps, hikes and competitions. A lot of the fun of staying at an all-inclusive are the activities and entertainment of offer. At Impressive Punta Cana daily activities include ping-pong, beach and pool volleyball, mini-golf, board games, windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking and even yoga on a floating fitness mat. The mats all tied together with the yoga teacher on a mat in the middle. It looked pretty precarious but a new one for the gram! In the evening guests make their way to the theatre for performances featuring artists, music, contests and circus acts and then there's the option to dance until dawn at lively ‘Opalo Disco’.

With an all-inclusive package there's a danger of being tied to the resort but do try and do at least a couple of tours. A visit to Saona Island is the most popular excursion taken by holidaymakers visiting the Punta Cana area. Part of the Cotubanama National Park, Saona Island's unspoiled beaches, lush palms and blue water immediately say ‘Bounty’ (Mars Inc.) advert and it's no surprise that it's where the ‘Bounty’ adverts were filmed. The island has also been used for filming several movies, including Pirates of the Caribbean: ‘The Curse of the Black Pearl (2003)’ and The Blue Lagoon (1980). It's a two-hour boat trip from the fishing village of Bayahíbe including a stop for snorkelling in the waist deep blue lagoon, and then time to relax on the island itself. Alternatively, leave the beach crowds behind on a full-day cultural excursion to the Bayaguana Countryside to visit a sugarcane plantation, explore the historic streets of Bayaguana and take a cool dip in the clear waters of the Salto Alto Waterfalls. This tour includes easy transportation in a safari style truck with open air seating and a Dominican buffet lunch.

If you're looking for a slice of Las Vegas in the Caribbean and the ultimate Rockstar getaway, then ‘The Hard Rock’ ticks every box - there's nowhere remotely comparable. It's got the wow factor in spades. However, for a smaller more easily manageable all-inclusive I can highly recommend ‘Impressive Punta Cana’. Most visitors to The Dominican Republic will fly in and out of Punta Cana but I'd strongly advise tagging on at least a couple of nights in the capital. It's a two-hour transfer from Punta Cana but a world away from the beach and the views from the swimming pool terrace and the location of gorgeous boutique hotel ‘Kimpton Las Mercedes’ are hard to beat.

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matters’ Communication Officer. She visited Dominican Republic in February 2025. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd)

Last year, I was invited to take a special trip to explore uncommon locations of hidden beauty in places that people wouldn’t instantly associate with Nepal. I travelled to the remote north-western corner of the country to visit indigenous communities of which we still know so little. 

I stayed in the guestrooms of families who had never met foreign visitors, communicated without a common language and walked in wild places with expert local guides who had knowledge to fill an entire library.

Beyond walking the unpaved paths of tranquil rural roads, I soon realised that I was also travelling to places for which a map hadn’t yet been drawn. Here is the story of that unusual experience – another attempt to expand the image of a country by adding cultural layers to the traditional map.

I’ve structured my story following the stops of my journey on that revealing and enriching trip organised by Community Homestay Network - CHN in May 2024, and the charming encounters that occurred.

Bhada Community

“I am from the Tharu ethnic group myself and in our community, in the South, we consider this a Heritage village”.

With these words, our guide, Manav, introduced me to the Bhada community we were about to reach and stay in, a traditional Tharu village a few kilometres from Dhangadhi. We were exposed to the local culture in several ways, but the most memorable happened in a collective moment the evening before my group’s departure.

While a warm sun was setting in the village, lively arrangements were taking place for the event of the day. Yellow veils floating and silver jewellery shining: the women were gathering. Some of them stand like princesses adorned with their traditional jewellery resting royally on their foreheads and chests. Some gave my camera a solemn look while I was trying to capture their radiant beauty, others shared a disarming, sweet smile, held behind shy eyes. For the first time, they were about to perform in front of a group of international visitors.

Full of excitement, and perhaps embarrassment, they were preparing themselves for the traditional dances they usually execute in front of the other members of their village to celebrate a wedding or another social or religious event. The yellow veils started to move, elegantly held by the hands of the dancers and lifted to the rhythm of the colourful drums that one of the elderly ladies was bringing to the centre of the courtyard where we were sitting.

In front of our eyes, different kinds of ceremonial dances took place. These dances are an integral part of their traditions, and although they were out of context, they were strictly performed as is the custom on those occasions. We received guarantee that no adaptations or changes were made for the tourists.

With extremely precise and rapid movements of their hands, the ladies were creating strong melodies all around us. While pirouetting, they were bringing together different kinds of bells and the notorious wooden sticks of the renowned dance. Their instruments were constantly changing, appearing and disappearing almost magically among the veils and the brightly coloured long skirts at each new dance.

The rhythms were festive and engaging, and it wasn’t hard to imagine how easily they would gather and keep the whole village together for hours. No surprise that many of us ended up giving in to the seduction of the music by filling the gaps of their formation, trying to copy with clumsy but enjoyable effort, their elegant twirls.

The following morning, our van waited in front of each one of the homestays where the group of participants had been accommodated. Many were the hugs and the signs of gratitude exchanged with the relative hosts. By the time we left for our next stop, the inside of the van had changed colours. Each neck and each seat were now adorned with goodbye presents from our lovely hosts: shiny garlands of different fresh flowers, so that it appeared to me somehow were carrying the joyful notes from the previous night with us.

(‘Part 2’ to follow, here…)

If you want to contact Elisa, please feel free to make an Enquiry today!

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

In mid-January 2025, we set about a remarkable 3-night adventure to Porini Amboseli Camp, a remote eco-camp hidden in the heart of Kenya's wild bush. Our adventure was filled with documentary-esque wildlife encounters, peaceful moments in nature and authentic cultural experiences. The camps have even been endorsed by Sir David Attenborough:

“What a marvellous example of how people and wildlife can live alongside one another. Thank you all.”

Photo Credit; Porini Mara Camp

On Monday morning, we departed Nairobi, after a delightful 2-night stay with our partners at Ol Losowań House. We began our journey with a delicious breakfast before meeting our driver, Freddy, who took us on a scenic three-hour drive through Kenya’s motorways and countryside. The latter part of the trip, through ‘the Bush’, set the tone for the untamed beauty that awaited us at Amboseli.

Amboseli National Park, located in southern Kenya and has a rich history intertwined with human settlement and wildlife conservation. In the 17th Century, the Maasai migrated from the north, bringing their cattle herds to the area. To protect wildlife from poaching, the colonial government established the Southern Maasai Game Reserve in the early 20th Century, which included the area now known as Amboseli National Park. In 1991, the national park was later listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

On the outskirts of Selenkay Conservancy, we were warmly greeted by Thompson (Letina) and Dan (Muli), our dedicated Maasai guides. They drove us to the camp, which is camouflaged and immersed by the safari landscape. If you didn’t know what you were looking for, you would certainly miss it! With the camp being surrounded by nature, it’s common for the resident Copper Tailed Monkeys to be seen & heard leaping from tree to tree, adding to the camp’s unique atmosphere.

***

Michael provided us with a light-hearted check-in and explained rules of the camp and showed us the facilities. The camp features just 10 spacious guest tents, including two family units, designed for privacy and comfort. These traditional safari tents, with private verandas are furnished with comfortable beds, soft rugs and en-suite bathrooms complete with bucket showers, wash basins and flush toilets. Solar-powered lighting adds an eco-conscious touch and evening hot water bottles were a delightful & considerate touch.

The camp caters to dietary preferences and provides a friendly, relaxed atmosphere for up to 20-guests at a time. You therefore feel a sense of privacy. The camp provides a fully-inclusive package covering all meals, drinks (including wine, beer and spirits) and activities.

Recreational activities at Amboseli Camp Porini include expertly guided game drives in open-sided 4x4 safari vehicles, escorted bush walks with Maasai guides and a visit to authentic Maasai village, Eselenki. Guests are encouraged to participate in night drives to spot nocturnal wildlife, sundowners at scenic viewpoints and bush breakfasts and lunches.

***

After settling in with light refreshments, we were whisked off our feet and on to our first afternoon safari. What a start!  We were treated to an incredible sight, as the guides managed to track the prints of three lionesses lounging and playfully rolling around, a rare sight as they hadn’t been spotted in three weeks. To top it off, we visited a local waterhole and witnessed an imposing, but gentle, family of elephants congregating to rehydrate. We could not believe our luck with our first experience. If we saw nothing else, the trip would have been worth it!

Dinner back at the camp was a relaxed affair in the main tent, where we exchanged stories with fellow guests over a delicious meal. The resident chef was trained at ‘TOP CHEFS’, the respected International Culinary Arts School situated in Nairobi.

The night was peaceful, with the sounds of wildlife providing a soothing backdrop as we drifted off in our eco-friendly tent.

Tuesday was our full day safari, in Amboseli National Park. Our day began early, with a cup of freshly brewed Kenyan coffee (possibly the best coffee in the world?) at the opening of our tent. The ideal wake-up call! After breakfast with other guests, we set off on a thrilling full-day safari.

It wasn’t long before we realised the effects of the mornings caffeinated coffee hit was completely unnecessary, as we were about to be nourished with hits of adrenaline and dopamine. Within 10-minutes, we had our first sighting of the day - a family of giraffes, ambling and feeding on high tree branches. Their comical bodily propositions can be spotted on the horizon, as they loom over trees. Giraffes will always spot you before you spot them, so it takes an expert guide to take a route that won’t alarm them into scattering.

We then spotted a rare spectacle, a Gerenuk (Antelope) standing on its hind legs to reach leaves packed with moisture. It was fascinating to learn that the Gerenuk does not drink water. It survives by getting its h20-fix from the leaves, flowers and fruit it eats.

Soon after, a herd of elephants surrounded our 4x4. Our guides calmly switched off the engine as we sat mesmerised, watching these wise giants up close, seeing every detail from their wrinkled skin to their long eyelashes. We could even smell them.

The highlight of the day (yes, there’s more) was our visit to Amboseli National Park. Amboseli is a haven for all creatures, due its wildlife protection and anti-poaching laws. Wildlife often makes its way from the Tanzanian border, but not vice-versa.

As we drove to the National Park, the mist lifted and we spotted Kilimanjaro's main peaks Kibo and Mawenzi. As we drove closer to the boarder, the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro came into view.

Throughout the day, we spotted a variety of animals, including; African Buffalo, Maasai Giraffe, bathing Hippopotamus, Zebra, Antelopes, Impala and even Spotted Hyena. As dusk fell, we returned toward camp and visited a local waterhole, which had been built by the Amboseli gamewatchers. Nearly 30-Elephants gathered at the watering hole, including younger males vying for the attention of a female in heat.

We ended the day back at the camp with a hearty meal of ribs and greens, reflecting on the extraordinary wildlife we had witnessed. Needless to say, we slept very well, especially in the knowledge that local staff are keeping watch of the camp and the tents.

Wednesday morning began with a ‘Bush Breakfast’ and another unique experience in the wild, followed by a walk with our guides, Dan and Thompson. These intimate moments allowed us to learn more about their Maasai culture and deep connection with the land. Afterwards, we indulged in a relaxing afternoon at camp, playing a game of Bananagrams, before enjoying a lunch of tender pork chops.

In the afternoon, we visited Eselengei Village, where we were greeted with a traditional Maasai dance and given a tour of the village. The jewellery production, facilitated by Porini Camp, is an important part of their sustainability initiative. Meeting the village elders and joyful children was an eye-opening experience. Their simple yet fulfilling way of life, free from the trappings of modern consumerism, was sobering.

As the sun began to set, we enjoyed more Sundowners from an observation point, overlooking a waterhole. The family of elephants returned, offering yet another special wildlife moment. Dinner that evening featured stuffed chicken with bush sage, a herb whose delightful aroma fills the air during the heat of the day. The surprise of the evening came with a lovely non-alcoholic bottle of bubbles served by Jackson, a member of the camp staff.

Our final activity was a Night Safari. Armed with a red-filtered spotlight (harmless to the animals’ eyes), we drove into the bush. While it started slowly, we soon spotted African Hares, Bat-eared Foxes, Servals hiding in trees and finally, the king of the jungle – a male lion. We turned off the engine and sat in awe, watching the lion in his natural habitat, an experience that felt like a rare privilege. A testament to our guides, who can seemingly find the proverbial needle in a haystack with their eyes closed, in the darkness of night.

Thursday morning was our last at Porini Amboseli Camp. It felt like it came too soon! Porini kindly prepared us a packed breakfast, due to our early start. The reliable Dan and Thompson, toggled head-to-toe in thermals, drove us to Emali train station as the sun began to rise. From here, we caught a train to Mombasa. As we left the bush behind, we carried with us memories of incredible wildlife, beautiful landscapes and the warmth of the Maasai people.

Our stay at Porini Amboseli Camp was not just a safari, it’s a journey into the heart of nature, where every moment felt connected to the land, wildlife and the symbiosis of the existence between man and nature. If you're looking for a truly immersive experience in the wild, this is the eco-camp visit. With its Gold Eco-rating and deep commitment to community conservation, Porini Camps provide not only a comfortable and authentic stay, but also contribute to the local ecosystem and Maasai livelihoods.

(This blog has been written by Matt, Travel Matters’ Business Development Manager. He visited Kenya in January 2025.)

China has always been a country that I knew very little about. Having read and learnt facts about China from western media, I can’t deny that my biases and caution about travelling there had affected my decision in visiting the country.

I have been so fortunate to travel to over 80 countries in my lifetime and frankly China until now, had not been on my radar. Having just returned from a three week adventure from North to South China using trains, Didis (China’s answer to Uber), buses and rafts – over 3500kms, I now have a better understanding of this incredible country.

This China trip took many hours of research and preparation as we travelled independently. If you do not feel as adventurous as we were, I advise you talk to me first and we consider the other options like using a specialist tour operator to help with the travel arrangements. There were times when I felt very out of my depth with the language and making myself understood. ‘Google Translate’ is a must unless you are a proficient mandarin speaker. There are other apps you will need before you go to China which I can tell you about too.

Touching down in Beijing after a ten hour direct flight with China Southern, we started our epic journey. We visited the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall in the short time we were there. The Forbidden City is the imperial palace complex in the centre of the city. It was the residence of 24 Ming and Qing dynasty Emperors. This is where the rulers operated from for over 500 years from 1420 to 1924. We hired a local guide for the afternoon who navigated us through the Forbidden City. I learnt that the Forbidden City was declared a World Heritage Site in 1987 by UNESCO. Tiananmen Square is huge! I was reminded of the history of the square, especially as I remembered the student protests and demonstrations in 1989. As a twenty something back in the late 1980s, I was alarmed at what happened.

Travelling to China in late December and early January meant that the crowds at the Summer Palace were non-existent. In fact, everywhere we travelled had minimum visitors due to it being low season. I saw some hearty individuals breaking the ice and swimming at the Kunming Lake, by the Summer Palace. The Summer Palace is a wonderful area of open space with the lake, gardens and palaces in Beijing. It was an imperial garden during the Qing dynasty. This again is one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. 

The Great Wall was a defence project of successive Chinese Empires. The total length of it being more than 20,000kms. The wall is interspersed with watch towers and shelters as well as fortresses and passes. This was the only place we experienced crowds. It is a sight to behold.

From Beijing, we had our first train journey. You don’t need to have a train ticket on you as China’s transport system is so ahead on technology, the seamless check in is similar to using your boarding pass for a flight. Flash your passport and the gates open to allow you through. The trains and train stations run very smoothly and efficiently. Fifteen minutes before the departure time, the platform is announced and you are allowed to head to the platform. You have a designated seat so there is no danger of overcrowding on the network. It puts our UK train system to shame. We travelled at speeds of up to 300kms an hour, through Wuhan on the 5th anniversary of the WHO announcement of the coronavirus pandemic. It was a pinch me moment.  After our eleven hour train journey, we arrived at Zhangjiajie. This national park, China’s first has to be the highlight of our trip for me.

If you have heard of the Avatar film, you will know that the mountains in that film were inspired by the real ones in Zhangjiajie. There are hundreds of peaks and mountainous spires within the national park. You can hike around once you have an area pass as the region is serviced by shuttle buses, cable cars and the Bailong elevator. Be alert for monkeys. As we walked down the stunning Golden Whip Stream, I had a monkey jump on my back, trying to grab some of my snacks from my rucksack. He was a brazen near thief which was a tad alarming!

As we travelled in the low season, it offered a totally crowd free experience. This time of year can be colder, yet at the same time, the park is at its quietest.

Next stop was Yangshuo. Renowned for its majestic karst mountains and the stunning scenery of the Li River, it has become one of the most popular destinations for visitors in all of China. We hired some bicycles from our hotel to take in the beautiful natural landscape of the area. We followed the river, cycled out of town in the countryside, where we found ourselves in peaceful countryside with a few locals around. Before leaving Yangshuo, we took bamboo rafts up the Li River. These traditional fishing rafts are a bit of a tourist trap but I thought the forty minute river experience was well worth it.

Heading on another train to the region of Guangzhou province enabled us to visit the Gulong Gorge near Qingyuan. The gorge is located about 70kms from Guangzhou. We were keen to see this national attraction as it has many “world firsts” to its name. This is the world's first glass sightseeing combination that integrates a suspended glass platform, a glass suspension bridge, a glass plank road, a glass mirror, a glass live broadcast room, and a glass sky mirror. The six glass projects are suspended at the top of the mountains and waterfalls. I built up my courage to walk across the glass platform – spanning over 70 metres. The waterfalls are beautiful, with the vertical drop of over 200 metres, this is not for the faint hearted.  

I feel I have only scrapped the surface with China. The people are incredibly friendly and helpful. They are courteous, respectful and law abiding. I felt extremely safe to travel around as an independent visitor. After three weeks of enjoying noodles, dumplings, tofu and buns, I am pleased to enjoy some more western foods. It’s been a real cultural immersion, challenging my comfort zone but as a friend advised, that’s not a bad place to be at the beginning of the new year.

 (This blog has been written by Karen, CEO & Founder. She visited the China in December 2024.)

Visiting a country packed with more wildlife than you can count has been a dream of mine for years. Malaysia, with its ancient rainforests and mesmerising coral reefs, seemed like the ideal destination to make it come true. Where else can you spot monkeys in the trees one day and swim with sea turtles the next?

But planning this trip wasn’t easy! Malaysia is a big country and squeezing all its highlights into two weeks felt like trying to zip up an over-packed suitcase. We mapped out a route that included flying between regions and focused on Borneo, the wilder, more adventurous side of Malaysia.

Our first stop was Kuching, the capital of Sarawak. The name means ‘Cat’, in Malay and the city is dotted with cat statues that range from cute to slightly creepy. Aside from the feline obsession, Kuching is a charming mix of history, culture and some of the best food I’ve ever tasted.

Our absolute favourite was the Sarawak laksa, a spicy noodle soup that could make even the worst travel day better. We paired it with three-layer tea, a sweet drink with milk and palm sugar and instantly fell in love with the local flavours.

Kuching also has a wild side, so we took a trip to Annah Rais Longhouse, a traditional Bidayuh village in the Borneo Highlands. Imagine a giant wooden house on stilts, shared by dozens of families. Staying overnight gave us a peek into their way of life, surrounded by the jungle and immersed in age-old traditions.

Next, we headed to Bako National Park, the oldest national park in Sarawak and a paradise for wildlife lovers. This is where we met the park’s celebrity - the Proboscis Monkey. With its big nose and pot belly, it’s a mix of hilarious and adorable. We also spotted Bornean Bearded Pigs (basically the jungle’s coolest pigs) and long-tailed macaques doing their best to steal food from tourists.

The park’s trails took us through mangroves, beaches and dense jungle. We saw Flying Lemurs, Silver-leaf Monkeys and even a Monitor Lizard that seemed just as surprised to see us as we were to see it.

After exploring Sarawak, we flew to Sabah in the northeast of Borneo. Our destination was the Kinabatangan River, a haven for wildlife. Imagine cruising along a misty river at sunrise, camera in hand, while Orangutans swing through the trees and proboscis monkeys lounge like jungle royalty.

We took two cruises a day, one at sunrise and one at sunset. The morning cruise was magical, with the river shrouded in mist and the jungle waking up around us. We spotted Orangutans, Gibbons, Hornbills, and even Crocodiles lurking on the riverbanks. The only thing missing was a sighting of Borneo’s Pygmy Elephants…but that’s just another excuse to come back.

Our final stop was the famous Sipadan Islands. After a scenic drive (and a sobering glimpse of deforestation for palm oil plantations), we took a boat to Mabul Island, our base for four nights.

Mabul is a paradise for muck and macro diving, where you look for tiny creatures hiding in the sand and corals. But the real showstopper was Sipadan itself, a volcanic cone turned underwater wonderland. Diving here felt like swimming in a giant aquarium.

We saw Turtles, Sharks, schools of Barracudas and even found ourselves in the middle of a swirling ‘Barracuda Tornado’. It was surreal! Every dive revealed something new; Sleeping Nurse Sharks, Eagle Rays gliding past, and so many colourful fish it felt like an underwater carnival.

Leaving Sipadan was hard. It’s a place that gets under your skin. But there’s always next time, and I know I’ll be back to explore more of Malaysia’s incredible wildlife and underwater treasures.

(This blog has been written by Monika, Travel Matters’ Senior Travel Advisor. She visited Malaysia in 2020.)

Photo Credit: Laurentiu Morariu

Travelling to St. Lucia in September might not be the first choice for many, but I can assure you it was an experience we’ll cherish forever. With our one-year-old baby embarking on his first big long-haul adventure, we embraced the low season with open arms.

Contrary to what is expected, the weather was delightful! While September is often tagged as the hurricane season, we enjoyed beautiful sunny days with only the occasional brief rain shower. These short bursts of rain typically came and went within minutes, leaving behind refreshed air and vibrant greenery. We relished our time outdoors, exploring the island and soaking up the sun.

Photo Credit, Katrina Mulfati

Our first stop was the Bay Gardens Beach Resort and Spa. Located on the beautiful Reduit Beach, this resort is ideal for families. The beach was just steps away from our room, which made it easy to navigate with our little one. Our ‘One-bedroom Suite with Pool and Seaview’ was very spacious and had sunset views to truly cherish!

The staff were incredibly accommodating, providing us with a crib and high chair upon request. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, allowing us to unwind fully. The highlight was the beachfront dining; there’s nothing like savouring local cuisine with the sound of waves in the background! Our son loved the soft sand and we enjoyed building sandcastles while keeping an eye on him.

We were fortunate to attend a manager’s cocktail party taking place every Wednesday, where we enjoyed delicious rum punches and a vibrant atmosphere brought to life by a fantastic local band. We absolutely loved the resort’s location, as it was wonderfully serene, yet just a 15-20 minute walk to the heart of Rodney Bay, with its shops and restaurants. That’s truly a rare find in St. Lucia!

After a wonderful stay at Bay Gardens, we headed to Windjammer Landing Villa Beach Resort. This resort was an entirely different experience! Think stunning hillside views and charming Mediterranean-inspired architecture.

Here, we had a little more space with a beautiful villa that made family life easy. The resort offered various amenities, including pools and a private beach area, making it perfect for families. We loved spending afternoons by the pool while our baby splashed around in the shallow end. One of the highlights of staying here is the opportunity to indulge in private room service meals that bring the island’s culinary delights right to your doorstep. One night we opted for dinner on our private terrace, where the golden hues of the sunset created a charming backdrop.

Cheers to great food and even better memories!

What makes Windjammer Landing truly special is the convenience it offers.

Our trip to St. Lucia was not just about the beautiful resorts and stunning landscapes; it was about the memories we created as a family. Watching our baby experience the beach life, tasting tropical fruits and taking leisurely walks along the shore filled our hearts with joy.

Traveling during the low season proved to be a blessing. The island was less crowded, allowing us to enjoy everything at our own pace. Both resorts exceeded our expectations and I highly recommend both Bay Gardens Beach Resort and Spa and Windjammer Landing for a family getaway.

As we wrapped up our unforgettable trip, we confirmed once again that St. Lucia, with its warm weather and stunning scenery, is a fantastic destination for families…even in September. Whether you’re lounging on the beach or exploring the lush landscapes, it’s a place that offers relaxation and adventure in equal measure.

Ours was a twin-centre holiday, with Martinique being only an hour and a half away by ferry, we thought it would be a crime not to jump over. Please don’t hesitate to make an Enquiry today!

(This blog has been written by Maryna, one of Travel Matters’ Senior Travel Advisors. She visited St Lucia in September 2024.)

What kind of Maldivian Traveller are you?

This was the question on my mind before I set off to visit the Maldives, a destination that had been on my bucket list for as long as I could remember. With picturesque beaches and world-class diving, this tropical paradise promises an experience like no other. The Maldives hardly needs an introduction! It is a spectacular archipelago in the Indian Ocean, comprised of 26 Atolls and over 1,000 coral islands, known for its white-sand beaches, turquoise waters and luxurious resorts.

But with so many incredible resorts to choose from, how do you find the right one? I was lucky to experience two amazing resorts, each with a unique vibe!

My adventure began at Malé International Airport, where I hopped on a seaplane to one of the Maldives’ northern gems, Dhonakulhi Island and the Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. As I sipped coffee and nibbled on snacks in the luxury lounge, watching seaplanes come and go, I could already feel my holiday experience settling in. The hour-long flight over shimmering Atolls was simply unforgettable!

Upon arrival, the warm smiles of the resort staff welcomed me and I could instantly feel the island’s welcoming energy. If you crave privacy, space and a deep connection with nature, then Hideaway Beach Resort is your ideal destination.

As I strolled through the lush greenery and tropical flora lined path, making me feel like I was living out my Moana fantasy. Many Maldivian islands are small enough to circle in 20-minutes, but Hideaway was spacious enough for leisurely bike rides and buggy adventures. Wandering along the verdant trails to my villa was like stepping into paradise. And let me tell you, arriving at a luxury villa elevated my entire experience!

On my first day, I tossed my fins into a basket, hopped on a bike, and set out to explore. Hideaway’s villas are some of the largest in the Maldives, complete with private pools and direct access to untouched beaches. They also have smaller Maldivian-style villas tucked away in palm groves, offering perfect solitude. Strolling along stretches of beach with no one in sight felt like my little slice of paradise. The staff were attentive yet discreet, like guardian angels there when needed, but they always respected my privacy.

Dining at Hideaway Beach Resort was a feast for the senses. Each meal was crafted from fresh, local ingredients and enjoyed with stunning ocean views. From seafood and coconut curries to sushi, Thai and Indian dishes…every bite felt like a taste of exotic bliss.

Though the resort was quiet and serene, there was no shortage of activities. From Padel and golf to thrilling water sports like jet skiing and kayaking, there was something for everyone. Snorkelling and diving opened up a new world, revealing the vibrant marine life that makes this destination special. 

I was eager to explore the underwater world! With my mask and fins in hand, I dove into the sea, and from the very first glimpse. I knew it would be spectacular. Just off the island, Hideaway Beach Resort boasts a mesmerising deep channel with a coral wall bursting with marine life. Snorkelling along these walls, I swam alongside turtles, stingrays and friendly reef sharks. Each dive felt like stepping into a majestic underwater paradise. Scuba diving took the experience even further, allowing me to connect intimately with the ocean. As we hopped on the boat to visit nearby dive spots, I was blown away by how healthy and beautiful the corals were, teeming with life, including manta rays, sharks and turtles. 

On my last day, we wrapped up the trip with a sunset cruise on a luxury yacht. As we sailed away from the island, sipping cocktails and soaking in the sunset, we were treated to a playful school of dolphins. This was a particularly magical way to end my stay!

Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa are our champions of eco-friendly practices. They aim to preserve its stunning environment through a series of different initiatives. The resort uses solar energy to reduce its carbon footprint, bottles its own water to avoid plastic waste and supports local fishermen who employ sustainable methods. Guests are invited to enjoy fresh produce from the Chef’s garden and can join tree planting activities to aid reforestation. Coral care initiatives protect marine biodiversity, while natural materials like coconuts and driftwood are repurposed into crafts. Energy-efficient operations and efforts to minimise waste reflect the resort’s commitment to a greener future where luxury meets sustainability. You can learn more here.

Lily Beach Resort and Spa

Next, I was off to Lily Beach Resort, and I was excited for another seaplane ride…what a treat! Flying over the cigar-shaped island, I noticed it was more compact than Hideaway, with facilities spread out along the length of the island. Just 25-minutes from Malé in the South Ari Atoll, Lily Beach is renowned for its incredible marine life and scenic beauty.

From the moment I arrived, the atmosphere shifted. Guests mingled by the pool, families played on the beach and the atmosphere was lively and friendly. Lily Beach felt more social, like an all-inclusive paradise where everything is taken care of, including; gourmet dining, unlimited drinks, excursions and even spa treatments. If you’re looking for a vacation where your biggest concern is which cocktail to order next, this is your spot! Childcare services mean parents can relax while the kids embark on their own adventures. Evenings were filled with entertainment, live music and themed nights that made each night a memorable one.

Once again, I found myself in a gorgeous beach villa with a private pool and an open-plan bathroom, complete with a luxurious bathtub. I loved waking up each morning knowing I could stroll straight to the ocean for a refreshing swim to kick off my day. The island was compact enough to cross in 15-minutes, with stunning views around every corner.

No time to waste; it was time for scuba diving! The nearby reefs were rich with marine life, including manta rays and whale sharks. The house reef itself was captivating, wrapping around the island and creating an underwater haven accessible from the beach. I snorkelled and dove here, witnessing everything from turtles to rays and sharks, along with colourful fish. The vibrant house reef alone was worth the dive, but I was eager to venture further for a chance to see mantas and whale sharks.

On one dive, we reached a manta cleaning station and waited, holding our breath in suspense. Just when I thought we might miss them, they appeared! Manta rays glided gracefully above us like gentle giants. It was surreal; I felt both humbled and deeply grateful to be in their presence. Such beautiful animals and adventure not to be missed!

To maximize my chances of spotting more marine life, we joined a popular snorkelling tour to see mantas, whale sharks and dolphins. Just when I thought my trip couldn’t get any better, we saw mantas gliding below us while we snorkelled.  We set off in search of whale sharks, navigating strong currents and big waves that made following any sighting a challenge. The first dive revealed nothing, but on the second there it was, a massive whale shark, minding their own business. I held my breath, in anticipation, watching this majestic creature move in slow motion. As the tour ended, dolphins appeared, dancing around the boat. It was a beautiful day!

Travel Matters would also like to acknowledge Lily Beach Resort & Spa’s efforts it places in sustainability. By implementing a variety of eco-friendly ingenuities, the resort is able to reduce its environmental impact. Key efforts include reducing single-use plastics by bottling their own water in glass containers and using paper straws. The resort also prioritises sourcing local fish caught using sustainable "Pole and Line" techniques to maintain fish populations.

Energy optimisation is another important focus. The resort uses energy-efficient appliances and recycles waste heat from generators to heat water. Additionally, the resort's dive team organises regular reef clean-ups and teaches environmental responsibility through PADI courses.

The Verdict: Which Resort is For You? 

In the end, I cherished both resorts for different reasons. Hideaway Beach Resort felt like my own private paradise. This resort is an escape to soak in nature and explore without a crowd. Lily Beach Resort, on the other hand, was fun, lively and filled with activities that kept each day exciting. Both resorts offer exceptional beauty, luxury and remarkable experiences in the Maldives. It all comes down to what kind of traveller you are! Are you seeking tranquil relaxation or a vibrant, social escape? 

Whichever you choose, the Maldives’ underwater paradise awaits! If you need help picking the perfect resort for your getaway, just reach out and make an Enquiry today! Travel Matters is always on hand to share their experiences.

(This blog has been written by Monika, Travel Matters’ Senior Travel Advisor. She visited the Maldives, with our travel partners Van Isacker Exclusive, in October 2024.)

Dugi Otok, in Croatia, is a stretch of land covering approximately 40km in length with a population of circa 2,000 residents. Having never set foot on Croatia soil before, my imagination of the coastline, its sailing territory and beautiful landscape was to be realised as we touched down in Zadar. With a couple of hours to spend sightseeing in Zadar before our boat took us to Dugi Otok from Zaglav Port, we wandered the little streets. Zadar is famed for its sea organ, a spectacular musical instrument, which plays melodic notes as the waves lap against the pipes. Some people are reminded of whale song when they hear the sea organ. It certainly is a magnet for the curious, who come and listen. The designer, Nikola Basic, created this famous attraction; 35 underwater pipes stretching across 70 metres.

The public ferry from Zadar takes you to Sali on Dugi Otek, some 40 minutes from Zadar. My first impression was how unspoilt and serene the island is. Within five minutes, we had climbed the road leading to Villa Nai 3.3, located in the middle of an olive grove. It has breath-taking views of the sea and the nature park of the Dalmatian coast. It is one of the most luxurious hotels in the Mediterranean, close to the exquisite cliffs of Telašćica Nature Park and beautiful islands across Kornati National Park. Villa Nai 3.3 is the first hotel among The Leading Hotels of the World with a prestigious ‘Good Travel Seal Level 1’ certificate by Green Destinations. It is a gem for all who love architecture as it has an unusual geometry within the olive groves. This is another wonderful project from the famous designer Nikola Basic (designer of Zadar’s sea organ I mentioned above.)

I was curious to understand how the property got its name. Snow is rare in this part of Croatia and lasts an average of 3.3 days. ‘Nai’ means ‘Snow’ in Dalmatic, an extinct language from this area of the Adriatic, so Villa Nai 3.3 was named accordingly.

With just 8 suites, each with private terraces overlooking the bay, the forests and the olive groves, each suite is calm and secluded. The olive grove of Villa Nai 3.3 has produced olive oil for centuries. All olives are picked by hand and processed the same day. We were fortunate to be there when the staff of Villa Nai 3.3. were harvesting the olives. The olives are separated from their stems and any affected by external conditions are discarded. The oil does not disappoint. In fact, we couldn’t try enough of it – lunches and dinners were served with the oil and freshly baked focaccia to soak it up along with other exquisite tastes that the talented chef had cooked for us. There is always a feast of fresh fish, salads and vegetables.

Time was spent sightseeing and then enjoying their wellness area and spa. Your body will thank you as you pamper yourself at the spa. They offer revitalising treatments with products made from their own olives and olive oil that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. You will feel very special after a treatment such as Balinese and Thai body massages. The sauna and Jacuzzi are wonderful with bird song being played in the sauna as you relax. Heavenly!

At Fort Grpašćak, you have the visitor centre. It is housed in a former fort (several of which are still scattered on the nearby islands). Another highlight is Lago Mir. This salt lake formed after the last ice age. The seawater comes in through cracks in the ground. The lake is about 900 metres long with a higher salinity than the surrounding Adriatic Sea. It is a wonderful place for swimming and walking.

A visit to Dugi Otek would not be complete without a visit to the lighthouse Veli Rat. It is 36 metres high, built in 1849 and I was fortunate to climb the many stairs for a extraordinary view of Dugi Otok. The views over the Croatia seas and islands are spectacular.

Villa Nai 3.3. is the most wonderful hotel to stay in while you visit this unspoilt area of Croatia. The owners and hosts, Goran and Nives Morovic are delightful. I felt like royalty during my short stay here.

To learn more about Karen’s stay in Croatia and Villa Nai 3.3., please feel free to make an Enquiry today!

 (This blog has been written by Karen, CEO & Founder of Travel Matters. She visited Croatia in October 2024, courtesy of our partners at Red Sky Marketing)

Photo Credit Red Sky Marketing and Villa Nia 3.3.

Stepping off the plane in Preveza, the warm Greek air and brilliant sunshine was very welcome as we embarked on a three-day tour of the stunning Mar-Bella Collection of hotels.

Day 1 of our journey took us to the Elix, Mar-Bella Collection, near Perdika on the Greek mainland. The resort is located on a pine forested hilltop overlooking the gorgeous Karavostasi beach. Our sea-facing rooms offered breath taking views of Paxos, Anti Paxos and the sparkling Ionian Sea. After a leisurely lunch overlooking the infinity pool the beach beckoned, and what a beach it is. Reached by the hotel funicular, or for the more intrepid guests down the 100 plus steps built into the cliff face, it is a perfect crescent of white sand and glittering azure water. The hotel also offers hiking and biking in the surrounding hills for anyone wanting to add a bit of adventure to their stay. As the sun began to set, we headed to Ruby, the terrace bar to soak up the views and sip the obligatory cocktail. Our first day ended with dinner at Pearl with it's innovative and absolutely delicious Greek and Corfiot inspired menu, of which the local sea bream ceviche and grilled squid were highlights.

The following morning the 9am yoga class which takes place in an amphitheatre on the cliff edge had my name written all over it! The hotel brings in a new yoga teacher and gym instructor each week and I was lucky enough to experience a flow class with Heather Hart Wellness. The full class was testament to how popular this initiative is and shows what can be achieved when a hotel gives some proper attention to their wellness program.

The rest of the morning was spent exploring the picturesque town of Parga. The town is steeped in history, and after a climb up though the cobbled streets towards the castle offered an idyllic backdrop for lunch in a local taverna.

Photo Credit, Miltiadis Fragkidis

Day 2 also ushered in a change of scenery as in the afternoon as we transferred by private boat to Corfu and on to our next hotel. The transfer is an excursion in it's own right with stops to admire the crystal clear waters of the Blue lagoon Beach and nearby sea caves. The MarBella, Mar-Bella Collection (the flagship resort), an all-inclusive family hotel, awaited our arrival. With its beautiful gardens, sea views and newly refurbished rooms, Mar-Bella is the perfect spot for a family or multi generational getaway. I was tempted to try out the onsite waterpark, but decided that a bit of sunbathing and a swim at the private beach was probably more my style.

There is a fabulous selection of restaurants and everything we ate from the lunchtime buffet with it's freshly grilled fish skewers and roasted pork belly to the upmarket French restaurant Celeste serving up mouth watering beef tartare was perfection. The Mar-Bella Collection is immensely proud of the culinary offerings in all their hotels and justifiably so.

The third hotel in the Mar-Bella fold is Nido, which is an adult’s only small hotel adjacent to Mar-Bella Corfu. As part of Small Luxury Hotels the resort is an oasis of calm, with rooms offering private pools terraces or hot tubs. Built into the hillside every room has a sea view and so much space you may never want to leave (I didn't). Our dinner there at Apaggio was sublime with local lamb, lobster and a raspberry and coconut pudding of dreams.

Our final day was spent visiting the Governor's olive oil press. This tour gave us a fascinating insight into the age-old tradition of olive oil production in Corfu. The highlight was, of course, tasting the fruits of their labour which was a fitting end to our Greek adventure.

As we bade goodbye to the Mar-Bella Collection, and made the short transfer to the airport we carried with us not only the memories of the stunning vistas and delicious food but also a sense of the warmth and hospitality of the Greek people (and a few bottles of olive oil).

(Jackie, a Travel Matters Travel Advisor, visited the Mar-Bella collection in Greece during May 2024, courtesy of our partners at Exsus Travel)

Our journey began with the excitement of exploring the famed Galapagos Islands, a dream I never thought would come true until I secured a spot aboard one of Ecoventura's luxury yachts. But little did I know that Ecuador had much more to offer beyond the allure of the famous Galapagos Islands. 

The locals have a saying that Ecuador is so small and diverse that you can enjoy breakfast by the beach, lunch in the Andean mountains and dinner in the Amazon—all in a single day! 

As tempting as it was to rush through Ecuador's incredible destinations, we chose to take a slower approach, focusing on fewer destinations to truly immerse ourselves in the beauty and charm of the countryside, volcanoes and bustling city life, leaving the jungle for next time! After bidding farewell to the finches and sea lions of the Galápagos, we found ourselves drawn to the towering majesty of Cotopaxi National Park, home to one seriously impressive volcano surrounded by the Andes Mountains. Cotopaxi, standing tall at 5,897 meters is a sight not to be missed! Its perpetually snow-capped peak, rising majestically above 5000 meters and presents a postcard-like perfect image of what a volcano should be!

As we explored the park, we encountered unique fauna, such as llamas and Andean foxes, amidst the diverse flora that blankets the landscape. While climbing Cotopaxi's summit requires careful planning and acclimatisation, there are alternative adventures that include hiking to the first base and exhilarating downhill biking experiences. Unfortunately, our altitude sickness prevented us from doing either, but luckily, we could enjoy the beauty of the National Park in other ways. Horseback riding, led by local Chagras, provided us with an intimate connection to the land and its inhabitants, offering glimpses of wild horses and roaming llamas against the backdrop of the Cotopaxi volcano.

(Note - “You can get altitude sickness if you're in a place that is at a high altitude (usually more than 2,500 metres above sea level. Symptoms of altitude sickness usually start 6 to 10 hours after being at a high altitude. The main symptoms include; a headache, loss of appetite, feeling or being sick, feeling tired or exhausted dizziness and difficulty sleeping”. If you're at a high altitude and have symptoms of altitude sickness, please notify your guide. Symptoms of altitude sickness usually get better in 1 to 3 days. Information provided by NHS.)

Our base for exploring Cotopaxi was the enchanting Hacienda El Porvenir, a working ranch nestled amidst four volcanoes, including the iconic Cotopaxi herself. Here, Maria, the gracious owner, welcomed us with open arms and introduced us to the rich culture of Andean life. Our accommodation was a charming honeymoon suite adorned in traditional Andean style, provided a cosy sanctuary complete with a crackling fireplace and sweeping views of the ranch. The Hacienda's main house provided warmth and authenticity and Nico the host, greeted us with local delicacies and warm hospitality.

Throughout our stay, Hacienda El Porvenir offered us more than just a place to rest our heads—it provided a gateway to authentic Andean experiences. From hands-on cooking classes to lassoing lessons with Andean cowboys, each activity offered insight into the region's rich heritage and agricultural practices. Our days were filled with leisurely walks, indulgent Spa treatments and unforgettable horseback rides against the backdrop of Cotopaxi's magnificence. As we bid farewell to the Hacienda, we carried with us memories of warmth, hospitality and the timeless beauty of the Andes.

As our time in Ecuador was coming to a close, we couldn't miss the opportunity to explore Otavalo, a town known for its rich indigenous culture and vibrant markets. After a scenic drive, we arrived and immediately sought out a local waterfall for a refreshing break, surrounded by lush vegetation and the soothing sound of cascading water.

With our spirits rejuvenated, we ventured into the heart of Otavalo, where the colourful traditional attire of the locals greeted us at every turn. The energy was infectious as we made our way to the Otavalo Craft Market, one of the largest in Latin America. Stretched across bustling streets and alleyways, the market was a feast for the senses, with stalls overflowing with handmade treasures. We wandered through the maze of vendors, admiring the textiles, carved woodwork and a dazzling array of jewellery. Each item told a story of Ecuador's rich cultural heritage. After indulging in some souvenir shopping, we journeyed back to Quito.

Our final day in Quito was full of exploration as we made the most of every moment in this beautiful city. We began by strolling through the historic Old Town, taking in the sights along the cobblestone streets. From the busy Independence Square, we set off to see some famous landmarks. Our highlight of the tour was the stunning Basilica of the National Vow, a testament to Ecuador's rich cultural heritage. We couldn't leave without trying Ecuadorian Ceviche one more time—a tasty way to end our trip!

In essence, Ecuador is more than just the Galapagos Islands—it's a country rich in culture, landscapes and experiences waiting to be explored. Each region offers unique charm and adventure, from the coast to the mountains and the Amazon. So, if you find yourself dreaming of Ecuador, don't limit your journey to the Galapagos. Embrace the diversity this remarkable country has to offer and prepare for the adventure of a lifetime!

(This blog has been written by Monika, Travel Matters’ Senior Travel Advisor. She visited Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands in September 2023.

In the past, Malawi tended to be neglected by travellers, little known, small and hidden in the Great East African Rift Valley, bordering Zambia, Tanzania and Mozambique. However, the country epitomises the saying, “Small is Beautiful”. Landlocked it may be but it has its own inland 'sea', the stunningly beautiful crystal-clear Lake Malawi. I visited in April this year and the country known as the "Warm Heart of Africa" didn't disappoint. My visit was brief, sticking to the capital Lilongwe, and two of the country’s main draws - Majete Wildlife Reserve, arguably the best place for a traditional safari in Malawi and for those in search of the ‘Big Five’ and Lake Malawi, the jewel in the crown of the country's tourist attractions. These are a few of the places I can recommend to stay… 

 Thawale Lodge (Majete Wildlife Reserve)

Malawi is not known for its wildlife, a safari here is more about memorable experiences and not just tick lists. However, there is plenty of game to see in beautiful surroundings but no convoys of vehicles characteristic of some African game parks. Long neglected, Majete Wildlife Reserve (located in southern Malawi's low lying Shire river-valley and one hour from Blantyre) has been the scene of an impressive programme of re-location. To date 3,200 animals from 16 different species have been reintroduced including the big five, leopard, elephant, buffalo, black rhino and lion. Other mammals reintroduced include eland, sable, waterbuck, nyala, hartebeest, impala, zebra, warthog, bush pig, giraffe and cheetah.

The re-birth of Majete is an inspiring story of resurgence and restoration, through the work of African Parks. Thawale Lodge, a completely unfenced camp lies at the gateway to Majete, a stay here is a safari in its own right! The word ‘thawale’ means a natural pan that fills with water after the rainy season and I was delighted that a herd of elephants were there to greet me on my arrival, quenching their thirst at the water hole, the matriarch playfully splashing her young family.  It was a magical site and just metres away from the camp's main dining area. Six traditional tented chalets are available as well as two purpose-built air-conditioned chalets for families – each with two en-suite bedrooms, a lounge, and veranda. The chalets are spaced out to offer visitors privacy and an individual bush experience. A communal lapa (traditional lounge area) with a fully staffed kitchen is available in the centre of the camp with fresh food served in the beautiful, thatched restaurant. Thawale is fully electrified and chalets have sockets, phone network and fans. As those who have followed my blogs will know, swimming is high on my list of activities and a unique experience at Thawale is swimming in the natural “bio-pool”, surrounded by freshwater life – including some of the many species of cichlids. Adding to the lure is Thawale Lodge’s conservation model whereby 100% of its revenue goes directly back to the reserve and surrounding communities. For families looking for an excellent value, rustic bush experience Thawale is hard to beat. Thawale is one of only two lodges within the reserve.  For a more luxurious, upmarket experience head for Robin Pope Safaris - Mkulumadzi Lodge

Robin Pope Safaris (Mkulumadzi Lodge, Majete Wildlife Reserve)

Mkulumadzi is on the banks of the Shire River, close to where it plunges into the Kapichira Falls. With eight stunning chalets, each with their own lounge and en-suite bathroom, they also have private viewing decks where you can relax, sit back and fall under the spell of the sights and sounds of the river. The lodge is far from the madding crowd with an infinity pool overlooking the Shire River, viewing deck and terrace, indoor and outdoor dining, a cosy bar and a lapa for evening campfires.

To get to the lodge you cross a suspension bridge over the Mkulumadzi River and arrive in a world where you can enjoy all the soft comforts of modern life in the isolation of a remote part of the African wilderness.  For a change from the usual 4x4 safari experience, here you'll also be able to take a leisurely boating safari down the Shire River to spot elephant, buffalo, hippo and crocodile and later enjoy afternoon tea on the terrace shaded by the giant leadwood trees and wild mangos. 

Mumbo Island (Lake Malawi) 

Home to the world's first freshwater National Park and covering a third of the country, Lake Malawi, the Rift Valley's 'Lake of Stars' is also the third largest lake in Africa. Situated at the Southern end of Lake Malawi, lying 10 kms (a 45-minute boat ride) from Cape Mclear, Mumbo Island is completely unspoilt. The island has never been populated so it remains in a pristine natural state and is run completely off grid, it took a while for me to get used to no electricity or wifi. Think eco retreat but with some creature comforts thrown in. At just one square km, the island is very easy to get around, there’s a series of walking trails with accommodation on a sister island (not called Jumbo!) reached by a wooden jetty.

My home for the night was a wooden hut, perched high on a hill with a wooden balcony overlooking the lake, a hammock to complete the Robinson Crusoe experience and a full moon, suspended in the velvet darkness to light up the room.  It was impossibly romantic, although my only company were a few playful lizards.  Huts on the east side of the island also have balconies and the benefit of glorious sunrises, enjoyed with morning tea brought by the helpful staff. Although rustic with a compost toilet and bucket shower, the bed with mosquito net was super comfy and a solar lamp perfectly adequate to navigate my way around the room and to dinner on the main island.  With wellness being the buzzword of the moment, Mumbo Island is the ideal place to enjoy sustainable tourism at its finest, to totally switch off and connect with nature.  There's no better way to do this than on a morning's kayaking trip. 

Propelling myself through Lake Malawi's crystal-clear waters, I admired the Seychelles like boulders bordering Mumbo Island, and moored my kayak up for a spot of snorkelling.  There was not a soul in sight, apart from a few distant fishermen, for an off the beaten track, far removed from reality experience this was as good as it gets. The lake is a real-life aquarium (home to 1000 species of tropical fish, many unique to the lake) and snorkelling around the Island I spotted innumerable species of colourful cichlid fish, far from hiding away, these little fish would happily swim around me, coming up close for a better look. However, Mumbo Island might be a bit too simple for some (although this is its charm) so I'd also recommend a stay at Blue Zebra Island Lodge just across the lake from Mumbo Island.  

Blue Zebra Island Lodge (Lake Malawi) 

Blue Zebra Island Lodge is only 2 hours’ drive from Malawi's capital, Lilongwe, followed by a 20minute speed-boat ride. This is the perfect getaway for nature lovers looking for a combination of adventure and relaxation in a tranquil, private setting. Exclusively situated on Nankoma Island, a wild paradise on Lake Malawi, the lodge is unobtrusive and eco-friendly, operating on solar power. Offering a unique and sustainable travel experience, Blue Zebra is a conservation driven lodge working with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife in Malawi to protect three islands making up the Marelli group: Nankoma, Maleri, and Nakantenga.

These uninhabited islands are home to a vast array of fresh water fish, including some of the most rare and colourful in the world. They support diverse flora and fauna and are a bird watcher's paradise. Accommodation wise it's a unique set-up with 9 en-suite safari-style tented chalets, 1 forest-set Pitta Cottage, and 1 Superior Family Cottage overlooking the lake.  Secluded executive chalets boast stunning views from private balconies. It's no surprise that the infinity pool also gets a big tick from yours truly.  Birding is a highlight at Blue Zebra Island Lodge.

Although the island is only 68 hectares, it's possible explore a number of nature trails, a favourite being "the African Pitta Path". Deemed 'the Holy Grail of African Birding', this spectacular migratory bird nests on Nankoma from around November - April each year with birdwatchers traveling across the world to catch a glimpse of this prized bird. Operating off the grid, Blue Zebra has recently upgraded to a 3-phase elaborate solar system to ensure sustainable operation of the lodge, with the introduction of free Starlink Wifi to stay connected when needed (although they highly recommend immersing yourself in nature and disconnecting from the 'real world' for a few days). Lake Malawi was ‘discovered’ by the Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone just over 140 years ago and it now forms an integral part of Malawi's cultural heritage, a stay here is an absolute must do on any visit to the country.

Kumbali Country Lodge (Lilongwe)

The most convenient way to divide Malawi is to use the capital Lilongwe, in the heart of the central region as a dividing point between the north and the south.  Rather than stay in a corporate business style chain hotel in the centre of town, I'd opt for a stay at Kumbali Country Lodge and secure some bragging rights as well - it's where Madonna stays on her visits to the country. 

Kumbali embodies luxury, relaxation, and sustainability on a vast farm offering tastefully decorated rooms equipped with modern amenities. The lodge is conveniently located 10 minutes from the capital and 31 km from Kamuzu International Airport, so would make a good base for a first or last night.  It was the unique combination of landscape, wildlife, and the lake which made Malawi for me so special and I hope one day to return to discover the less well-known North where I’ve no doubt some equally gorgeous infinity pools and memorable wildlife experiences await.  

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matters’ Communication Officer. She visited Malawi in April 2024. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd and ‘Blue Zebra Island Lodge - Roaming Media’)

For more information and details about your next Malawi holiday, please make an Enquiry today!

I have always wanted to visit Western Crete as I had understood that this part of the island is mountainous and green – quite a contrast to the eastern side, and I love getting outside, walking in the hills and being immersed in the countryside. Crete is renowned for its clean beaches, wild natural beauty, thousands of years of culture and history as well as it’s tasty cooking. Twinned with travelling with Simpson Travel, a family owned travel business with decades of experience in the industry, I knew I would be in the safest of hands, along with their eye for detail for all discerning travellers who choose to take the road less travelled.   

Arriving into Chania International Airport (Ioannis Daskalogiannis), we drove a short distance to the GK Beach Hotel, our base for the next few nights. This small family run hotel is in a very desirable location, with no more than 100 metres from the property to dipping your feet into the sea. What bliss to wake up with the sound of the waves licking the shore and to have a cheeky dip in the sea before breakfast. The Batzelis family have been welcoming guests for over twenty years and their genuine desire for hospitality has not waned as we are greeted by warm smiles from their staff and Simpson Travel’s representatives. I can sincerely say you will be welcomed there as if you are a member of their family. The hotel offers 23 suites and a 2 bedroom penthouse – ideal for families in the school holidays. Along with a beach side restaurant and bar, if you are feeling very relaxed, you really don’t need to venture far. 

GK Beach hotel is within walking distance to the quant village of Kalyves, making it very convenient to dine out in the various local restaurants, shop for groceries and explore by foot. I’d recommend hiring a vehicle to be able to venture around the wider region as this part of the island is renowned for its numerous archaeological sites, blue flag beaches as well as the Venetian harbour town of Chania.

A highlight of my trip was a visit to the gorgeous Arosmari Village Hotel. It is a beautiful haven of stone cottages with pretty gardens set in the timeless village of Vamos. The Spring flowers with the aroma of jasmine, chamomile and fennel were heady. Guests have the pleasure of relaxing in nature around the pool or the breakfast area. With the White Mountains as a back drop, on the outskirts of Vamos village, it’s extremely peaceful yet only a short walk to the village tavernas. Among the gardens is a threshing circle, old stone ruins for the snails (apparently) as well as a small ampitheatre where a weekly concert is held. Musicians from the Vamos Orchestra performed for us during our visit. The group included a bouzouki player as well as violinist, pianists and singers. Such a treat for anyone who happens to be in the area. It’s a weekly event organised by the owner of the property who participates in the orchestra. 

As Crete’s most celebrated author, Nikos Kazantzakis, famous for Zorba the Greek, once wrote: “The mystery of Crete runs deep. Whoever sets foot on this island senses a mysterious force coursing warmly and beneficently through their veins, sensing their soul beginning to grow.” I am sure that I felt the force whilst watching the pianist’s fingers dance across the piano keys during the outdoor concert.  

A visit to Western Crete would be unfulfilled if you didn’t visit the ancient area of Aptera which for years secured the maritime activity over the Gulf of Souda. The site’s history begins from the Minoan Period (3500- 1070 BC), however there are traces dating back to the Geometric Period (1000- 685 BC), the Hellenistic Period (323- 67 BC) and the Roman Empire (67 BC - 324 AD).

Crete is renowned for its gastronomy. We enjoyed so many dishes including Greek salads, traditional Greek Kolokithokeftedes (courgette fritters) and tzatziki, meatballs, saganaki (fried cheese) stuffed vine leaves – the list goes on – all washed down with an obligatory glass of Raki, the national drink of all Cretans. I overheard someone saying that a glass of Raki a day will keep the doctor away.

The olive groves are a common sight on Crete and we were privileged to visit an olive oil factory where we learnt about the harvesting and production of the olives, as well as having the opportunity to taste the olive oil. For those interested in gastronomy, consider a visit to a cheese factory or a vineyard for wine tasting.

A visit to Crete in any season is a trip worth taking but I would say especially better to go when the air temperatures are not so intense, so Spring or Autumn are ideal. You will find beauty everywhere, perfect for a rural retreat, for walking and hiking off the beaten path, spectacular views, traditional villages and hidden beaches.

(Karen visited West Crete in May 2024, courtesy of our partners at Simpson Travel)

‘Wellness tourism’ is a growing industry, supported by travellers actively seeking ways to enhance their well-being. After a few stagnated years for the Travel Industry, everyone is looking for wellness elements in their travels.

In an article by National Geographic Traveller (UK), suggested that “the number of people concerned about their health and wellbeing has rocketed since the pandemic began. The stats are legion but among them, 80% of those surveyed by Public Health England in 2020 — in the first year of Covid-19 — reported wanting to change their lifestyle in 2021 to become healthier. Just over a fifth (21%) of global travellers are currently travelling for health- and wellness-driven reasons according to the 2022 Travel Trends research by luxury travel network Virtuoso, conducted jointly with YouGov.

So, what are the benefits of taking a wellness break?

Natural Grounding by spending time in Nature

Walking barefoot on a sandy beach can stimulate the nerve endings while grounding you and restoring a natural flow of energy in your body. When you are connected to the earth, your body is able to absorb negative ions from the environment which can help to calm your nervous system and reduce stress. This phenomenon is known as 'Earthing' and is a wellness movement that is growing in popularity.

Photo Credit: Clint McKoy

Spending time in nature offers serenity, peace and space for creation. This includes reducing cortisol levels as well as improving attention spans and clarity. When your skin is connected to the Earth, your body is able to absorb electrons, which are carried up into the body. These have a “therapeutic effect that can help lessen inflammation and symptoms of insomnia, arthritis, cardiovascular diseases, chronic pain, improve mood and reduce anxiety” (Country Living).

Real life Vitamin D and healing powers of the Sea

If looking out into the ocean can activate opiate receptors in the brain and release dopamine (and its rush of reward), what can being outdoors and in the water do? The physiological response to being outdoors is that Vitamin D is produced, when receiving direct sunlight on the skin. This exposure, when done safely, regulates mood-related hormones, such as serotonin and can help to reduce symptoms of depression and anxiety.

How about getting into the water? Dr Rachel Taylor, a Neuroscientist, explains that seawater has lots of essential minerals, such as iodine, potassium and magnesium. And for many, it has a calming effect that helps the body detox and heal itself. The coastal air, affectionately refered to as ‘Ozone’ (now known to be Dimethyl Sulfide, released by microbes), fills you with negative ions which molecularly attach to lung tissue and boosts your metabolism.

So, doesn’t it make sense to meditate and relax by the ocean? This is a practice that author, Deepak Chopra, has been practicing for decades. Guided meditation near the water is an effective stress reliever. The beach encourages calmness and you can tune out all the negativity and spend time reflecting on the things that really need your focus.

Interesting! So, why not venture on to the sea and combine activity of sailing and mindfulness? After all, lots of sailing fanatics say that journeying by boat has similar effects on your body. Perhaps this is a chance to add these factors to your next holiday?

Exercise and Movement: Good for the Body & Soul

On a wellness holiday, you can engage in a variety of activities and sports; such as yoga, hikes, paddle boarding, snorkelling and much more. You can find the perfect balance of activity and relaxation.

Practices like yoga, breath-work and meditation have a remarkable ability to regulate the nervous system and promote relaxation. Also, these activities help with getting a good night’s sleep, so you will wake up feeling fully refreshed and energised for the next day of your holiday.

Surrounded by like-minded travellers: Make powerful connections

Happiness is best when shared! And what better way to do that than with open and like-minded people! Sharing your story with people that care creates a deep connection and helps you process hardship or painful experiences much better. That’s why Travel Matters has teamed up with ‘Sailing 2 Wellness’.

On each excursion, you will be accompanied by a Nutritionist (and cook) and your Skipper, who are also the tour leaders. Your hosts both share the passion for an active and healthy lifestyle and love to be on the water. Sailing allows them to completely relax and connect with the natural elements, so you are under the careful guidance of professionals who love what they do!

Imagine this – as you’re gliding over the water, Vincent (your Skipper) wants to explore the most hidden places. While you can sit back and enjoy a freshly prepared breakfast and lunch from Vallery (your Nutritionist and cook). The natural and functional ingredients have been carefully selected, to give you the right amount of energy throughout the day. Daily wellness activities like yoga, group meditations, paddle boarding and hiking to keep the blood pumping and bring you in the right state of mind.

Currently, 7-day Mediterranean breaks to Sardinia & Corsica and Turkey run throughout June & July 2024. And don’t worry if you speak a different language, between both of your hosts, they speak Dutch, German, English, French and Spanish.

For availability and exclusive rates, make an Enquiry with Travel Matters today!

(Excursions provided by Travel Matters and their partners at ‘Sailing 2 Wellness’)

Lanzarote, the most northern of the Canary Islands has year-round sunshine, gorgeous beaches and an out of this world volcanic landscape. It also has some rather unusual accommodation choices. I was there is mid-March, a last-minute booking in an effort to escape the endless rain and although I'm not one to camp, when offered the opportunity to stay a few nights in a luxurious yurt, I couldn't say no. 

Owned by Tila and Michelle Braddock, Lanzarote Retreats incorporates a collection of hand-picked, stylish properties. The founding ethos is simple: Guests don’t have to forsake modern facilities, rich comforts and concepts of luxury to have a responsible and sustainable holiday experience. Their flagship is Finca de Arrieta eco-village in the northeast of the island with seventeen yurts, villas and cottages. Set on the edge of a tranquil village close to the pretty beach of La Garita, Finca de Arrieta has spectacular sea and mountain views, a solar-powered pool and chill-out areas, veg patch, chickens for fresh eggs and even resident donkeys.

The land at Finca de Arrieta was part of working farmland for many years. Tila and Michelle (originally from the UK but Lanzarote residents since the 1990s) acquired the site in 2005, with a vision to purchase the land and create a utopia where their family could live off-grid and in the most sustainable way possible. The restoration project began with what is now the Eco-Luxury Villa, which was completed in 2006.  One of the guests enquiring about the Villa requested a third bedroom and Tila had the idea of installing a yurt. From this, the yurt kitchen and shower room were added along with a fenced garden. Creating the first yurt holiday home.

All seventeen-holiday yurts, villas and cottages at Finca de Arrieta are off-grid and the Finca is powered by the largest green energy system on the islands. In 2018 a desalination plant was added so that Finca De Arrieta could draw its own drinking water from the well and finally become fully sustainable. Other sustainable measures include providing a refill water station to help reduce the number of plastic bottles needing recycling and encouraging guests to wash with environmentally friendly products so that wastewater can be re-used for the plants. Any food waste goes to the Finca animal residents too, with guests encouraged to collect the chicken’s eggs for free by way of exchange. Holiday extras such as Toyota Hybrid cars can be arranged on request. And it's not just Finca de Arrieta: Lanzarote Retreats has other accommodation dotted around the island and the business wholeheartedly embraces the mantra of supporting local tradesmen and organisations. 

My home, Eco Yurt Royal proudly holds the title of the largest yurt on the finca, too big for one person but often booked by couples who like a lot of private space. It was meticulously crafted to an exceptional standard, very boho chic with Moroccan and Indonesian furnishings and featuring a private walled terrace, garden and raised gazebo. The latter an ideal setting for alfresco dining.  There was no shortage of organised activities: from on-site yoga, Pilates and massages, to paella nights and day trips to nearby attractions.

However, it's always going to be the swimming pool that I'm most interested in (I often choose accommodation purely based on the pool) and it was the finca's white washed lagoon style pool inspired by local legend Cesar Manrique that got the biggest thumbs up. Admittedly not very big but the aesthetics made it stand out from the crowd and reminded me of the pools at The Cesar Manrique foundation (Manrique's former home) and Jameos del Agua. You can't visit Lanzarote without seeing the art installations of the island's most famous son.  Lanzarote's landscape is unique, so much so that UNESCO has given the whole island World Biosphere Reserve status, in order to protect it. Be sure to see the Fire Mountains in Timanfaya National Park, it really is like something from another planet, children will love it and think they are stepping on the moon. For adults, a wine tour with Wine Tours Lanzarote is highly recommended. Against a backdrop of black ash soil with grapes grown in thousands of pits shielded by semi-circular stone walls, built around a single vine, these are like no other vineyards I've ever seen.  This cultivation technique protects the vines from the wind and keeps the humidity consistent. At Bodega Los Bermejos I tasted some fine wines from malvasía, muscatel and listán grapes. After a morning tour an afternoon snooze on a sunbed was definitely called for and at my next hotel, Seaside Los Jameos I had the perfect poolside view to sleep of the excess.

Seaside Los Jameos is another luxurious family favourite and made for a nice contrast with Finca de Arrieta. Located on a small, beach-lined promontory at the edge of the Playa de los Pocillos resort. It’s a quiet spot, within easy reach of Puerto Del Carmen’s lively old town (about a 45-minute walk away), shopping area, restaurants, and nightlife and just a five-minute drive from the airport. Launched in the 1990s with 530 rooms designed in the signature style of the island by pupils of Cesar Manrique and recently refreshed by London-based Muza Lab. It's very family-friendly with a kid's club, kiddies pool, spa and wellness centre and home to the Peter Burwash International tennis school. Nothing beats a welcome than a refreshing glass of bubbly cava and a light, airy room, all high ceilings and clean blue and white colours with a balcony looking over a sparkling lagoon style, palm fringed pool. The signature yellow striped umbrellas adding a touch of Californian style and the subtropical plants and ruby bougainvillea a splash of colour. Although minutes away, the hotel is a world away from some of the more cheap and cheerful resorts on the Puerta del Carmen strip, the latter is after all one of the most popular resorts in Lanzarote. I've stayed at dozens of all-inclusives but Los Jameos stood out for the quality, quantity and variety of the food served.  At both lunch and dinner there was a very impressive buffet, with chefs grilling fresh local seafood, steaks, a salad bar that seemed to stretch to several tables and then when I thought I'd had my fill, I'd discover another section offering some kind of themed cuisine, Mexican and Italian during my stay. The hotel is enormously popular with many repeat guests, and although tables were sometimes difficult to find, there was a never a queue at the buffet. 

Once I'd had more than my fill, it was time for my lengths in one of the two lagoon pools and I was thankful that one of them was heated, a big plus during the cooler months.  Seaside Los Jameos is a certified sustainable hotel, an independent organisation has officially certified the hotel as sustainable for meeting the criteria set by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC). Just a few of the practices the hotel has to follow to be certified as sustainable include reducing energy, water and waste, sourcing products locally, supporting local communities and using reusable, returnable and recycled products.  The hotel is also a Travelife Sustainable Tourism Gold Award holder #MakeTravelMatter

Finca de Arrieta is a great example of rural Eco-Tourism on Lanzarote. A Bohemian retreat where you can feel comfortable but still connected to nature. It's in the less explored north but if you’re looking for a top-notch all-inclusive oozing style and character, then I can highly recommend Seaside Los Jameos. It’s already a firm favourite with families who return year after year, combine with a couple of nights at Finca de Arrieta and you have a perfect combination.

Lanzarote is an ideal October half term or Winter Sun destination, if you need assistance in planning a trip, make an enquiry today.

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matters’ Communication Officer. She visited Lanzarote in March 2024. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd, Finca de Arrieta - Eco Retreat, Jameos del Agua, Seaside Los Jameos and Turismo Lanzarote.)

We travelled to the Indian Ocean to visit the island of Mauritius, where the sun-kissed beaches, vibrant culture and warm hospitality beckon the discerning traveller. Here’s a glimpse at an 8-day itinerary...

A direct flight from London to Mauritius is around 12-hours and there are numerous carriers available, including; Air Mauritius, British Airways and Emirates. Upon landing at Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, you will recognise that Mauritius’s international airport is a modern hub that is also appropriately sized for the footfall of holidaymakers this gem in the Indian Ocean receives.

We wanted to explore the island at our own leisure for the first few days, so we opted to rent a car with a local provider, Pingouin Car Rental*. The car rental kiosk is metres from the airports exit…it’s therefore impossible not to find! We had researched car rentals thoroughly before leaving and opted for Pingouin Car Rental due to its affordability and reviews. We were not disappointed! We were greeted by the cheery proprietor, Mr. Iqbal (whose name is heavily featured amongst prominent online reviewing systems). He helped us complete our paperwork and then escorted to our Suzuki S-Presso, which was more than capable when navigating Mauritius’s sound infrastructure. Within 45-miuntes of disembarking the plane, we were on the road.

(*‘Pingouin Car Rental’ picked up our car 3 days later, when we were in-resort, saving us the effort of having to drive to one of their local depots. Well worth the additional cost of around £15-20, which included petrol.)

Prior to our arrival, Mauritius had experienced its second cyclone of the year. During these periods, which tend to last a week, the island practically goes into lockdown. Upon arriving, we were greeted by some overcast weather, but the temperatures remained within the high twenties. The weather forecast suggested that we would have a week of intermittent showers and pockets of good weather, however this was not the case. Most mornings it rained from 04:00 to 06:00, but after that we were greeted by a full day of glorious sunshine (a minimum of factor 30 sun cream is therefore advised). It is always worth noting that the sun's rays are strongest the closer you get to the equator. This is due to the sun being directly overhead and as a result, UV rays travel shorter distances through the atmosphere. We always like to make it known that the weather in the Indian Ocean is unpredictable - it could be the middle of peak season (e.g. January and February) and you could still experience heavy rainfall.

Our journey started in Tamarin, named after the Tamarind trees which use to grow in abundance amongst this village. Today, Tamarin is noted by surfers as an unpredictable wave protected bay on the west side of the island, so it doesn't break too often (ideal for beginner surfers who are in need of a gentle lesson). Watching on from the beach, you can enjoy surfers catching waves well into the evening and even during the sunset. Our first full day saw us take to the ocean on a Catamaran Tour - the allure of Mauritius extends far beyond its azure waters, beckoning us to explore its hidden treasures during our expedition. Here, amidst the rhythmic sway of the boat and the melody of the ocean, we embarked on a voyage of discovery, swimming with dolphins in their natural habitat and basking in the splendour of Crystal Rock and Ile Aux Benitier, where marketers sell local trinkets and drinks served out of freshly carved coconuts. As we anchored at this pristine isle, we are greeted by a symphony of colours – the emerald green of the lush vegetation, the sapphire blue of the sky and the pristine white of the sandy beaches. All of this created a tableau of unmatched beauty that secured the feeling of being in paradise.

During our second full day, we woke at the crack of dawn and drove down to La Balise Marina and were met by Antoine & Wilson of Ocean Brothers Mauritius. Within minutes of setting off on a powerboat, with 8 other explorers, it wasn’t long before our Skipper and Whale Expert had plunged a hydrophone into the water in an attempt to detect some gentle seafaring giants. With a set of ‘thumbs up’ and a sense of enchantment, it was really then that we set sail on this whale watching and swimming tour. After several attempts to locate a resting family and over an hour riding deeper into choppier waters, we had our first mesmerising encounter with a Sperm Whale. With bated breath, we watched on in awe as the majestic whale breached the surface, their slow & graceful movements painting a picture of pure grace against the backdrop of the endless sea. And when the time was ripe, we plunged into the crystalline waters, embracing the thrill of swimming alongside these beautiful creatures. Over 3-hours at sea and we we managed three dives alongside different pods.

(During the experience, we were equipped with masks, snorkels and fins – all of which are completely necessary as you are fighting off 6-foot waves and creature that moves surprisingly fast considering its size. Our experts were enthusiastic about animal welfare and stressed the importance of keeping our distance and applying to their strict rules.)

During the next days, when we had returned to land, we delved into the heart of Mauritius, exploring its vibrant cities and charming villages. In Grand Baie, we lost ourselves in the bustling markets and chic boutiques, indulging in a shopping spree that found us brushing shoulders with the friendly locals. In Port Louis, we immersed ourselves in the rich tapestry of Mauritian culture, wandering through the historic streets and savouring the tantalising flavours of the local street cuisine. And in Flic en Flac, we surrendered to the allure of the sun-drenched beaches, where time stands still and worries fade away in the gentle embrace of the ocean breeze.

Throughout our break in Mauritius, we found solace and sanctuary at the exquisite Victoria Beachcomber, a 4-star resort noted for its refinement and cheerful staff. Nestled along the pristine shores of Pointe aux Piments, this idyllic retreat offers a combination of comforts and conveniences, from elegant accommodations adorned with plush furnishings and modern amenities to a wealth of facilities designed to pamper and rejuvenate the body and soul. Here, amidst the lush gardens and swaying palm trees, we surrendered to the rhythm of island life, indulging in sumptuous dining experiences, rejuvenating spa treatments and a selection of recreational activities that promise to delight and fulfil your every day.

Toward the end of our stay, we embarked on a scuba diving excursion with a PADI qualified school, attached to the beach of the Victoria Beachcomber resort. We were asked for our PADI certification number and debriefed on some of the key points of diving and found the instructors to be very helpful. We hopped on a powerboat and it wasn’t long before we descended into the depths, where a kaleidoscope of marine life unfolded before our eyes. Majestic octopuses gracefully glided past, their movements captivating our senses. We encountered Scorpion Fish camouflaged among the coral, their intricate patterns blending seamlessly with their surroundings. Stealthy Stonefish lurked in the shadows, a testament to nature's camouflage mastery. The vibrant hues of Lionfish added a pop of colour to the underwater landscape, their flowing fins a sight to behold. And then, a moment of serenity as a gentle turtle awoke from its slumber and glided by, its ancient wisdom evident in its tranquil demeanour. Each encounter is a reminder of the awe-inspiring beauty and diversity of the underwater world, leaving an indelible imprint on our hearts and minds.

We found that Victoria Beachcomber was the perfect base for recuperation during our 8-days of activities and adventure. Victoria has everything you need to truly relax, including swimming pools, water sports, tennis courts, a gym, gym classes and multiple bars & restaurants. But perhaps the true magic of Victoria Beachcomber is not its pristine beaches or airily comfortable rooms & suites, but in the warmth and hospitality of its people. Throughout our stay, we were embraced by the genuine kindness and generosity of the Mauritian staff, who welcomed us with open arms and open hearts, inviting us to share in the beauty and bounty of their island home.

(The resort will shortly be commencing a minor refurbishment, which should be finished by October 2024.)

Upon departure, as we bid farewell to Mauritius, we were reminded that true luxury lies not in the extravagance of material possessions, but in the richness of experiences shared and connections forged, in the moments of wonder and awe that remind us of the boundless beauty and possibility of the world around us. And in Mauritius, we have found all this and more – a paradise of luxury, a sanctuary for the soul and a treasure trove of memories waiting to be discovered.

(Matt visited Mauritius in March 2024, courtesy of our partners at Beachcomber Tours.)

I ended my travelling through East Africa between August and October 2022 by visiting three Community-Based Tourism (CBT) projects in Kenya.

Differently from the other stories I have contributed here, this time I feel the need to go deeper into one of the grassroots experiences I had there. This is the tale of my first indigenous community visit in Kenya, one that touched me very profoundly as a woman, and a story which I know I won’t get tired of telling – at least not until I pay them another visit.

Following Noltiga Pere on the dry riverbed

Walking Meditation

She looked directly into my eyes and softly spoke some words in her own language; her eyes were sparkling. She then asked for the help of Rosemary to translate her request. She wanted to show me something. She waited for my smile of approval and started walking slowly in front of me. We left the small group of the other women behind, still in the presentation circle that my host Rosemary organised for me upon my arrival at the CBT project an hour earlier.

Noltiga Pere is a slender woman, and her long legs made her steps faster than mine. She noticed that and often turned over her shoulder to check on me when she showed me around. First, she pointed into the distance at the massive rock that was the reference point my driver used to orient himself and find his way here. The rock looked like a composition made of three giant 3D puzzle pieces, placed gently onto each other and kept in balance in that weird position by some strong invisible glue.

Her steps were calm but solid, holding the same energies that I had perceived in her eyes since our first contact. The red and black chequered blanket she wore around her shoulders – as is the custom with her people – was undulating in front of me like a magic flying carpet, showing me the way on the arid, reddish soil.

I soon realised that we were walking on a riverbed, and the vegetation on its banks showed evident signs of drought. I was trying hard to understand why I was there, why she had taken me there, and what I was missing. Lost in my thoughts, I was struggling with the lack of common language and the urgent need to say something: ask questions, share my thoughts or comment on what was around us. I didn’t notice the same struggle in her, though – she seemed unconcerned with the absence of words.  My attempts to contribute with words quickly vanished as I began to appreciate the silent, welcoming tour she had gifted to me.  

As soon as my mind went quiet, new sounds and images appeared. Pebbles creaking under the pressure of my feet; black and white birds gliding around, surfing on smooth waves of wind; stripes of pink rising in the sky. One step followed another. Every sound became strangely amplified as if someone had added a noise cancellation effect to the scene. Suddenly I realised that the answers I was anxiously looking for in my head, might have been just there, under my nose, all the time.

Noltiga Pere

She was an empowered woman, simply caring for her new Sicilian guest. Only an empowered and self-confident woman, in fact, would have taken a stranger for a walk around her place without the worry of being judged or misunderstood. Perhaps she was simply doing what seemed a normal thing for her: acting on her kindness.

In the next couple of days, I would discover that she was not the only one holding that power in her, but that she shared that power with all her community. During the meetings and the workshops I would have with the other women, in the shade of the big acacia trees in their cultural manyatta, I would discover the reasons why this was and how different it used to be.

Adding Layers of Meaning

Over the years, I have worked with local communities in Brazil and Rwanda, and I was in contact with many other indigenous communities in Latin America, as well as the African and Asian continents. Due to my profession and the type of engagement I create with communities, I often encounter stories of women empowerment. The more I travel and visit indigenous and rural communities, the more the concept grows new layers of meaning in the pages of my vocabulary, especially when intertwined with Community-Based Tourism practices.

The Twala Tenebo project contributed to this with a strong realisation; it taught me that women empowerment can simply mean having the chance to express which parts of one’s culture can be accepted, without denying others, but most importantly, while strengthening rather than losing one’s identity.

The Project

Twala Tenebo is a women-owned-and-led Community-Based Tourism (CBT) project established in 1998 in the Laikipia region, Northwest of Mount Kenya. It is run on a piece of land that the women, after years of requests, community meetings and discussions, were eventually able to buy from the men in their community – for whom the ownership of land is traditionally exclusively reserved. On this vast piece of land, they have built the basis of what I think is a small cultural revolution, creating new paths for their own empowerment.

The walk with the baboons, the bee-keeping project, the organic production of aloe vera, the traditional singing and dancing and the original beadwork creation they design and sell to the travellers. These are a few of the tourism activities run directly by the women and offered through the project. Enjoyable and entertaining for the visitors, the activities and the other micro projects developed on the premises bring unimaginable opportunities for the local women as well. Having spent time with them, I can tell that what the visitors see represents only the tip of the iceberg of the real value that the project brings to its protagonists.

I am an Entrepreneur now!

The opportunity for self-empowerment came to them, first and foremost, by having a place to go outside of their homes, where they could gather with other women. Here they share their struggles as well as new ideas and – as they showed me – they also learn and pass on new skills among themselves. Today they see themselves as unfanibiaxara (Business Women), ‘owning and milking their own cow’, as vividly expressed by one of the women. Today they are financially independent from their husbands and able to choose their own destiny.

(Pictured Above: Discussion during the Community Storytelling Workshop Elisa organised at Twala Tebebo)

‘I am an entrepreneur now, I know how to run my own business’, says Joyce, arms crossed in front of her chest, projecting a satisfied smile. She is the lady who carefully dressed me up with their traditional rope and homemade jewellery, shortly after I left my luggage in my bungalow. I remember I felt like I was the subject of an official coronation. My smile spread from ear to ear for hours. Joyce’s destiny was decided when she was born. As the first daughter, she had the ‘privilege’ of receiving the baton and continuing the profession that her mother, in turn, had learnt from her mother. She was the ‘community doctor’ responsible for performing the Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) procedure on other women. In the community that is a notable job, and it is also very lucrative. That was part of the cultural tradition she belongs to, and was literally born into. In the past, it was unthinkable that this would ever change or to even think that it could be any different. But now, things are slowly beginning to change.

Together, we laugh!

Togetherness (Tenebo in the Ma language) was the bell (Twala) that gave them new eyes on their own culture from a safe distance, from which they could recognise limits and potential, but also find the courage to plant new seeds for the next generation of female warriors. When I asked them what the project meant to them, they answered that it brought them together, quite literally. Before this, they had little or no time to visit each other’s homes or spend time together. ‘Before,’ they continued, ‘We were meeting only for weddings or other celebrations. Now we meet each other here – and some of us, including Noltiga Pere, live here in the huts we built – and we laugh together.’

Today they don’t need to continue being passively exposed to the practice of FGM, which sadly is still carried out in some remote villages in Kenya. They recognise now that this is a violation of their human rights, but this has been a process. Rosemary, who initially invited me, is the strong and tireless leader of this project. It is she who has faced and argued, with endless determination, with the traditional male powers in her communities. It is also she who has had long and sensitive conversations with the women about their health, safety, sexual education and basic rights.

With her sweet, high-pitched voice and a constant smile on her face, I hear her saying loudly with all her inner strength, ‘I am a proud Maasai woman,’ and without falling into any spiritual contradictions she can declare, ‘I love my cultural roots, but this [practice] is not right.’

Together, we sing!

Step by step, on that uneven ground, in those last few hours of light of that October afternoon, with warm colours gradually painting the horizon behind the acacia trees, I kept following the rhythm of my Maasai lady guide. Moving slowly on the riverbed next to footprints left by the elephants the day before, the calm and steady pace of her footsteps became mine, and we continued walking together.

Every time she turned to me to show me the place with her gentle smile, I saw her pride mixed with curiosity about me, and a steady openness that comes only from someone who has walked on many unstable roads and can now stand on the solid ground which she has built for herself – but not alone.

Together, we grow!

“As a part of the Travel Matters team of Travel Advisors, I would love to share my knowledge on Community-Based Tourism and help you tailor your next responsible trip to Kenya and of course, plan your visit to Twala Tenebo Cultural Manyatta”

If you want to contact Elisa, please feel free to make an Enquiry today!

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

In the second part of Elisa’s journeys through Uganda, she starts her day by with some exciting wildlife encounters!

Wild animals crossing the tarmac roads is quite a common sight in rural Uganda. Beyond the usual pedestrians – extremely longhorn cows and goats – solitary pigs were also spotted in front of the car I was travelling in. There were goats taking a nap in the middle of the road on my way from Kampala to Murchison Falls NP, but I realised that it was 5am when we drove by, so perhaps they were not expecting passers-by at that time.

Although I was expecting a series of wildlife crossings inside the NP – as had happened in Akagera NP, in Rwanda – the hippo I met on my way to the entrance to Queen Elizabeth NP was literally a massive surprise. Still, in time for a late lunch break, this hippo was rushing to the other side of the street for easy access to the north bank of the Kazinga channel, to find greener pastures. It was a bit unusual to see one of them at that time (around 6.30am), in fact, although the sun had not risen yet; hippos usually feed at night, because their skin is very sensitive to the sun and cracks very easily, unless in water or covered by mud.

Hippo Spa – Queen Elizabeth NP

Uganda’s second largest NP, Queen Elizabeth, extends to almost 1,978 km2 and has an extraordinary diversity of landscape that ranges from grassland to acacia woodland, tropical rainforest to swampy shores and saline crater lakes to fresh water.

Saline Lake in Queen Elizabeth NP

I didn’t have the chance to explore the whole extent of the park, however, my visit was marked by several remarkable wildlife encounters. The most emotional of which for me was seeing my first ever wild lion.

The announcement of the possibility of meeting the ‘king of the jungle’ happened, while I was photographing a couple of beautiful ‘national’ cranes – the grey-crowned crane – that appear on the Ugandan flag.

The Grey-crowned Crane – Queen Elizabeth NP

A couple of young lions walked away from the group of females and young ones, and took a little, slow-paced stroll, undisturbed by the safari cars full of surprised and excited people pointing their cameras straight at them.

It was somehow surreal to be sitting inside my car’s door, so I climbed outside the window to have a better view – part of the semicircle of cars which ended up surrounding the two exemplars of the most feared animals in the savanna, observing its moves from up close. 

For the first time I realised why the lion is called the ‘king of beasts’: it seems to fear nobody, is fully confident in its strengths and it has no intention of wasting its energies on uninteresting activities. It has its reasons for being fearless. According to Britannica, a fully grown male adult can reach 7 feet (2m) long and weighs up to 500 pounds (ca 230 kg). 

Now and then they moved, and one of them decided to take a nap laying against the wheel of one safari vehicle, to the joy of the only tourist that was onboard, who for ten minutes didn’t stop taking pictures. The lion was not at all interested, took its nap and then moved away to another spot.

That day of wildlife encounters ended with an unusual one, which I sadly missed. I thought my driver – always prone to joke – was kidding when he told me that I had just missed the regular evening walk of one of the local elephants. There is a pond behind one of the lodge buildings where I was staying and, every evening, that particular elephant finds its way almost as far as the rooms and villas, walking elegantly and steadily along the same paved lane used by the guests. I could see the wiggling of its hips under the short lamppost that brightened the path on the video that Abdul finally showed me, giggling in awe. Such a graceful and respectful guest, I thought.

Early morning walk – View from Buffalo Safari Lodge

A nice appetiser…

It feels like the two weeks, packed with activities, experiences and miles across the astounding scenery, was just a drop in the ocean compared to all that the country has to offer.

Before leaving, I had already marked the continuation of my visit with a list of places and encounters that I want to go back and experience. Although I am still wholeheartedly celebrating the experiences that I had – and this article does not have enough space to contain them all – I know that I need to come back to this country to watch the climbing lion of the Ishasha Plains, in another sector of Queen Elizabeth NP, meet the chimps at Kibale NP and the gorillas in the Impenetrable Forest of Bwindi NP.

I also intend to return to see the tea plantations in Fort Portal and the Rwenzori mountains from close up, and perhaps even to climb them. I would also like to take the boat and see the Murchison Falls from the other side. Last but not least, I am looking forward to paying a visit to the remote areas of the North Karamoja and its traditional communities.

Mountain views the Queen Elizabeth NP

Mountain views the Queen Elizabeth NP continued...

Papyrus on the Kazinga Channel

I feel I need to open another chapter to talk about the invisible communities of this fascinating country, after having visited the National Museum in Kampala and learnt about the history and traditions of the fifty-six (yes, fifty-six!) different ethnic groups that still populate it.  

My next trip will definitely focus more on the local communities, which I only started to learn about since I travelled there. I will be directing my next journey in an anthropological direction – closer to my natural predisposition and interests – meeting cultures at the grassroots level, which for different reasons I was, unfortunately, not able to do this time. Now that I have discovered the cultural richness of this gentle country, my next trip will be completely immersed in it.  

Many stories still need to be told and that is the place where I belong.

*** 

I entered the country with no expectations and an open mind and left it finally understanding why it is called ‘the Pearl of Africa’. Its astonishing beauty is naturally hidden inside a hard and rough shell of little information and a lack of communication, which doesn’t reflect what it nurtures inside. A pearl is smooth and glowing with its own light, but one needs to be close to it to appreciate its radiance and be captured for life by its simple beauty. 

Come closer to Uganda and you will fall in love.  

See you soon, Uganda!

As a part of the Travel Matters team of Travel Advisors, I invite you to reach out to me if you need advice to plan your own itinerary through the real hidden gems of Uganda. I would be happy to share my knowledge with you and help you tailor-make your next trip to the Pearl of Africa. You can contact Elisa at -travelmatterswithelisa@gmail.com

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. She travelled to Uganda in September 2022. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)

Pocket sized Guyana in the North Eastern corner of South America is truly a wild frontier. A land of few roads, pristine forest and just 4,000 genuine tourists a year (which is less than Machu Picchu receives in one day) but wildlife and ecotourism a plenty. Guyana is a destination for travellers rather than tourists and for someone who likes to get of the beaten track, I was therefore thrilled to be given the opportunity to discover more of this still relatively little-known destination in October this year. Compared to most of South America, Guyana is under-developed, with over 80% of the land mass still virgin rainforest and it was to the thinly populated interior that I headed for the majority of my visit. Guyana has very few sealed or dirt roads which makes travel into the interior difficult and challenging with long distances  covered by small aircraft. Accommodation in the interior is mostly in intimate and simple lodges, ranches and rainforest resorts, with the following being a few of the places I can recommend to stay. 

Kaieteur Waterfalls

Waikin Ranch

Flying from the capital Georgetown over the rainforest to Letham, near the Brazilian border, takes you to the heart of the Rupununi with my first taste of the interior being in fact endless savannah. The vast savannahs of Rupununi have been home to Amerindian tribes and earlier indigenous populations for nearly 7,000 years. Nowadays ranch stays are popular and offer a chance to ride out with the vaqueros (cowboys) over the scenic savannah to watch the enormous sun setting over the horizon. My home for the night was Waikin Ranch, just thirty minutes’ drive from Letham and a perfect base camp to explore the Central Rupununi and surrounding attractions. Along with a night in one of the beautifully designed cabins, I enjoyed a trip out to the ‘Termite City’ and was stunned by the size and abundance of the mounds and no surprise, spent a lot of time cooling off in the ranches’ swimming pond, filled by a natural underground spring, admiring the huge variety of birdlife flying overhead.

Petra in Termite City

Karanambu Lodge

From Waikin Ranch I headed to Karanambu Lodge, a 110 square miles former cattle ranch located in the North Rupununi and the home of the late Diane McTurk (a pioneering spirit in establishing eco-tourism in the Rupununi) conservationist and a world-renowned expert on giant otters. Known for its expansive wetlands and savannah, as well as its biological and cultural diversity, Karanambu encompasses savannah, marsh ponds, riparian forest and a 30-mile stretch of the Rupununi River. The number of species found here is much higher than expected given its size with at least 600 species of bird and over 200 species of mammals. Guyana really is an undiscovered treat for those with an keen interest in wildlife. A very young David Attenborough spent time here and wrote about it in his early book, ‘Zoo Quest to Guiana’. The lodge has the flavour of an Amerindian village and dawn patrols on the savannah reveal giant anteaters and outstanding birding .

Karanambu Lodge

Caiman - Karanambu Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge sits is a small clearing surrounded by the towering rainforest, with black curassow wandering the lawns and humming birds feeding on the tropical flowers. Every room looks on to the forest and is a 10-minute stroll to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. The Iwokrama Canopy Walkway has four suspension bridges leading to three platforms, the highest of which is over 30-metres above the ground and offers exceptional views of the surrounding rainforest and is another ideal spot for birdwatching. ATTA's 8 en-suite rooms have been designed to make the most of the unique location with private roofless showers that offer a stunning view of the forest canopy tree tops while you shower.

Aerial view Atta Rainforest Lodge

Atta Rainforest Lodge

Black Curassaw

Canopy walkway - Atta Rainforest Lodge

Iwokrama River Lodge

Guyana is an indigenous word which means ‘Land of Many Waters’ with the Essequibo River being the largest.

The Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre is located on the banks of the river within The Iwokrama rainforest in the geographical heart of Guyana. The forest comprises one million acres (371,000 hectares) of forest or 1.6% of Guyana’s landmass and 2% of Guyana’s forests. It is part of the Iwokrama International Centre for Rain Forest Conservation and Development, an autonomous non-profit institution established by Guyana and the Commonwealth, founded to promote the conservation and the sustainable and equitable use of tropical rainforests. It aims to show how tropical forests can be conserved and sustainably used for ecological, social & economic benefits to local and national & international communities. When it comes to sustainability and eco-friendliness, Iwokrama River Lodge and Research Centre is the real deal. Accommodation is in eight perfectly situated river-facing cabins, each with its own veranda and hammock, perfect to watch the sun go down whilst listening to the many local birds and other wildlife. Iwokrama’s most popular excursion is to Turtle Mountain, an exhilarating 1 ¾ hour hike up a jungle trail to the top of the mountain (at approximately 360m) for breath-taking views over the top of the forest canopy. From here you really do get the scale of how vast the rainforest is. Not only is this pristine rainforest environment protected, but its local inhabitants, the Makushi people have hands-on involvement in all aspects of conservation and tourism.

River view at Iwokrama River Lodge

Essequibo River (Iwokrama River Lodge)

Surama Eco Lodge

Guyana's first indigenous community lodge is set on a savannah overlooking rainforest and mountains with the Burro Burro River a short hike away. Surama Eco-Lodge is the place to discover the forest through they eyes of the Makushi people and if you're lucky see a harpy eagle. Whilst wildlife and birding are undoubtedly Guyana’s biggest draw, it was the chance to learn a little more about the Makushi that I found just as fascinating and especially a visit to the village of Surama. The village is situated in a small savannah, deep in the rainforest and surrounded by forest clad hills. It was here that Charles Waterton passed through in 1812 in search of the secrets of the useful Wourali poison known as Curare. Waterton was so stunned by this spot that he wrote in his memoirs “The finest park that England boasts falls short of this delightful scene”. Surama's inhabitants are mainly from the Makushi tribe and still observe many of the traditional practices of their forebears. I was able to visit the local school, medical centre and church along with some of the village houses.

Surama Eco Lodge

Preparing Cassava - Surama Village

Guyana may be small in size but it is an absolute giant in terms of both responsible and sustainable tourism having won many eco-tourism awards including the inaugural; ‘Best of Eco-tourism’ category at the ITB global travel trade fair in Germany in 2019 and the Latin American Travel Association’s (LATA’s) ‘Best in Sustainable Tourism’ award. From its Low Carbon Development Strategy to the more recent Green State Development Strategy (GSDS), Guyana has had a long-standing commitment to a sustainability agenda. This coupled with nine Indigenous Nations who have been stewards of their ancestral lands for a millennia illustrates that sustainability is a core value and a way of life for many Guyanese. Indigenous communities own and manage their own tourism enterprises, from running eco-lodges to taking travellers out on immersive tours to discover the ancestral lands on which these enterprises are based. Their low-carbon lifestyle and conservation efforts of their ancestral lands mean that tourism not only has minimal impact on the environment but provides the essential livelihood required to sustain these communities.

Vaqueros (Cowboy) - Waikin Ranch

Giant Anteater - Waikin Ranch

The Swimming Pond at Waikin Ranch

With rivers and rainforest, gigantic lilies and enormous termite mounds, Guyana has no shortage of natural wonders but there's one that supersedes all others, and is the most visited attraction in the country - the Kaiteur Falls, almost five times the height of Niagara, with a single sheer drop of 226m. This is Guyana's trademark and easily one of the most impressive and beautiful sights in the country, a solid column of water in a perpendicular drop, the cascading foam and spray producing breathtaking rainbows across the gorge. Getting to the falls involved a flight by propeller plane, landing at a tiny airstrip near the waterfall, the pilot circulating the falls, so both sides of passengers can take in the full view (and take the obligatory show and tell photo for folks at home). One other sight or sighting that puts Guyana on the map (particularly amongst the birding community) is a glimpse of the illusive Cock of the Rock bird, a fabulously coloured bright red-orange bird with a very striking appearance and mating dance. There were two opportunities to spot the tiny bird and I was rewarded on the short appropriately named cock of the rock trail near Atta Rainforest Lodge. Cock of the rocks can also be seen on the short walks around the Kaieteur Falls.

Hoatzin Bird

To conclude Guyana is a place where travellers can experience extensive forests, mountains, waterfalls, rivers and wide array of wildlife along with a vibrant indigenous culture, a rich history and a hospitable and friendly people. If you are prepared to sacrifice luxury accommodation and a few creature comforts, the rewards will be phenomenal. Guyana's unique tourism product is well worth the extra cost and effort and I'd put South America's best kept secret high on your list as the next must-see destination.

Petra at Surama Eco Lodge

(This blog has been written by Petra Shepherd, Travel Matter’s Communication Officer. She visited Guyana in October 2023, with Wilderness Explorers. British Airways has flights to Georgetown, Guyana (via St Lucia) twice weekly. Visit Guyana Tourism and learn more. Photo Credits by Petra Shepherd and Wilderness Explorers. If you need assistance planning your trip, make an enquiry today!)

On an overcrowded bus on a stifling September afternoon, I left the hot and restless town of Musanze to embark on a road journey that opened my eyes and heart to the hidden preciousness of an unknown and undervalued land. 

I had no idea what to look for in that foreign land beyond a two-day safari trip to Queen Elizabeth and several meetings I had planned across the country in eco-lodges, scattered on green patches on the map.The strong presence of the Sabyinyo volcano through the bus windows – which, later on, was supported by the presence of Gahinga and Muhabura – escorted me silently while the sun was going down, and provided great reassurance along the 25 km bumpy bus ride to an unknown land. I crossed the border between Rwanda and Uganda at Cyanika (Kyanika on Ugandan soil) on foot, dragging my luggage back and forth between two offices until my passport gained a brand-new stamp, next to my three-month visa. Finally, when the night had already arrived, I spotted the warm smile of a familiar face waiting for me on the other side of the barriers.

Over the following two weeks, I would cross the country on land from the south-western border with Rwanda to Lake Victoria’s bank, in the calm Entebbe, passing through the chaotic and overwhelming capital Kampala, tormented by endless traffic and livened up by its wild motor bikers.

Kampala – view from the top of the Minaret of the Central Mosque in the Old City.

On the way, I literally straddled the line of the equator, and visited, crossed or brushed sleeves with six of the ten National Parks (NP) that the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages – together with twelve Wildlife Reserves, five Community Wildlife Management Areas, and thirteen Wildlife Sanctuaries.

The road trip gave me the opportunity to really appreciate the landscape of a country the same size as the UK, but which felt much bigger and unexplored. I was impressed by the vast spaces around me, especially the rich and varied views, but also the amount of water I saw flowing through them. However, I haven’t yet been to the north-eastern region, which is the only semi-arid area of the country and therefore has different landscapes.

During my trip to most of the rest of the country, I have seen many bodies of water, in the shape of rivers, and lakes – volcanic, small and green, or vast like the sea – waterfalls, streams and a lot of rain. I was also pointed towards the supposed source of the longest river on the planet, although this matter is controversial, because there are three countries vying for who hosts the origin of the Nile. About 8 km from my first stop in Kisoro lies Lake Mutanda, which was created several thousand years ago following a volcanic eruption of the Virunga massif. Surrounded by green hills, the 22 km2 lake is blessed with a clear view of three of the eight Virunga volcanoes that sit in Ugandan territory. Muhabura, with an altitude of 4,127m, is the volcano that dominates Kisoro and the whole region so it is not surprising that it was given this name, which means ‘the guide’, since it used to guide people to the town before GPS became available. This was the first lake I’d seen here, and I had the chance to stay overnight on a tiny, cosy island that had remained uninhabited for at least 600 years. But that is a story for another time.

Murchison Falls – view from the top

View of Muhabura volcano from Kisoro town

There is a great view of the lake from the hills, on a small trail going to the organic coffee farm to learn about the local production and have a field-to-cup experience with a skilled guide and the local expert. I took some pictures of the water, but I must admit that I was distracted and entertained by the local children and their goats, that had surrounded me to come and say ‘hi’ and test their English with me.

Hills just outside Kisoro town, walking towards the Organic Coffee Farm with local kids and goats. In the background, Lake Mutanda.

Close to the water…I had a lot of encounters with water, usually joyful and electrifying; even the time when I ended up falling up to my hips in a deep muddy hole when disembarking from a boat, while it was raining cats and dogs. As soon as the fear of having my camera submerged in the mud vanished, I started laughing at the thought of having expected that spot to be rocky, and at being left with foggy glasses. Well, I was happy to have paid that price for having remained on board to take pictures of that – amazing – scene of the rain on the lake Mutanda.

Rain on Lake Mutanda

Boat ride on the Kazinga Channel – Queen Elizabeth NP

Kampala

Traditional canoes, parked at the local community’s pier on Lake Mutanda

However, the encounter I remember most vividly, without a doubt, was the one I almost had, close to the clouds, when I caught a brief glimpse of the Bwindi NP Forest from a privileged spot. Standing at the edge of an exposed hill facing directly towards the canopy, I saw the changes of scenery, the light forcing through the loaded clouds, and the atmosphere getting heavier, the wind blowing strongly and clouds gathering in preparation for a storm. All framed in that goalpost placed there by the locals for their football games.

I left the view of the national park behind, driving and skirting along its southern border in the rain and with a strong desire to enter the so-called ‘Impenetrable Forest’ next time. The image of the thick canopy I had seen from the top of the hill, close to the clouds, had generated vivid images in my mind of what could be below the ‘green roof’. Walking through a forest that challenges the light to get in, creating an evocative atmosphere to discover one of most biodiverse forests in Africa which, according to the Bradt guide, includes 160 tree and more than 100 fern species, not to mention 350 bird species, 200 butterfly species, many reptiles and amphibians, and at least 120 species of mammals.

I was reminded that here live 45% of the global population of mountain gorillas, of which there are a total of twenty-three families of habituated groups living in Bwindi NP, while and Mgahinga NP provides the home for only one habituated gorilla group: the Nyakagezi family.

The Twin Crater Lakes: Katinda & Murambi - near Queen Elizabeth NP

I would see even more water during my trip, after my first stop in Kisoro, including several visits to crater lakes, which was a present from my lovely guide, Abdul, of the experienced local Tour Operator Dav Safari. Another fabulous encounter with water was gifted to me by the lovely General Manager of Nile Safari Lodge, Nathalie Van Pée, who took me to the majestic and mighty Murchison Falls in the north-west of the country.

After a six-hour car ride on a trip spent with my face pressed against the window, awestruck, I arrived at Queen Elizabeth NP, welcomed by a baby elephant concealed in the dark, which my driver spotted before I even realised there was something moving between the bushes on the side of the road. A propitious sign, that marked the beginning of a series of unusual wildlife encounters the next day, which is detailed in ‘Uganda: a country to embrace with open arms (Part 2)’.

(This blog has been written by Elisa Spampinato, a travel writer & Community Storyteller, CEO & Founder at Traveller Storyteller. She travelled to Uganda in September 2022. Photo Credits by Elisa Spampinato)